Regional & Seasonal: Great North Pie Co

A Cumbrian shop, in a walker’s paradise, serves up warming home-made pies to be lustily devoured at journey’s end

acustomer pushes open the door to a small pie shop, cheeks ruddy from the wind gusting down from the fells. The large windows are cloudy with steam, and the rich, buttery scent of freshly baked pies fills the space. People tuck into their meals: pies resting on heaps of creamy mash are broken open with the gentle pressure of a fork. Some are accompanied by bowls of crushed peas, others by home-made baked beans. Many are draped in thick, rich gravy. A Labrador, lying obediently on the wooden floor, lifts his greying muzzle curiously as a waitress sidles between the tables. This is the Great North Pie Co in Ambleside, a small shop within a larger, traditional stone building. Here, the short menu of four pies changes with the season, side dishes are made from scratch and even the ceramic dishes that the pies are served up in are produced in Bolton for the company. Neil Broomfield, the head chef and owner, takes his inspiration from the meals he grew up with and the quality of food available in the Lake District. “We take some of the classics and try to rework those to make the best versions we can of them,” he says. “We use all-butter pastry in the pie cases. There are no shortenings or anything like that.” North of the village, greening fells rise to an unruly sky. At their feet, Lake Windermere forms a long, southward-pointing spear. The combination proves an irresistible lure, and many of the customers wear boots grubby from a day out walking as they dig hungrily into their meals. “When you come back from a walk, you want pie and mash, and lots of gravy; something warming like that,” says Neil. “It’s a classic British comfort food, so here we like to keep it simple and try to do it really well.” Made at the shop’s bakery, the pies can be bought hot to eat in the café or cold to take away, but Neil began by simply selling them at farmers’ markets around the North West. “We always used to visit the Lake District as a family, and when we started making and selling pies, we said that would be where we’d want to open a shop,” he says. “Once, when we were visiting, we stumbled upon this place. It was a nice size for us; small and cosy, and exactly where we wanted to be. It was a bit too early, but it was too good to lose.” The shop was an immediate success with locals and visitors. “We didn’t do any advertising; it was just passing trade and word of mouth. We opened the doors one day while we were setting

up, and people began to walk in. It’s nice, you know: people visit the Lakes and it becomes an important part of their trip.” As diners scrape their chairs back to leave, their empty dishes smeared with gravy, others carry out boxes of pies to be eaten at home. Still more enter and take a seat eyeing the golden pies that pass them as they are delivered to a neighbouring table. Though the menu is seasonal, one pie remains present all year round: the Lancashire cheese and onion. “It’s really simple. We don’t use potato, don’t use sauce; it’s just cheese with some softened onions,” says Neil. “We’re always tweaking the recipes and trying to make things better, but the cheese and onion is something we’re really happy with.” The pie cases themselves are precisely crafted to satisfy. Neil had the tins custom-made to a depth of approximately three horizontal fingers, which is said to be the perfect size for a mouthful. The combination of Lake District scenery and traditionally made pies seems to be a winning one. “It’s stunning here; a beautiful place to be,” says Neil. “We do a lot of farmers’ markets, so we’re always speaking directly to the customers. So many people come back or send friends.”

Great North Pie Co, The Courtyard, Rothay Road, Ambleside LA22 0EE. Tel 07557 649 513 http://greatnorthpie.co