RECOMMENDED CULTIVARS FOR IMPACT
A. palmatum
Bright, seven-lobed green leaves turn a dazzling shade of red in the autumn. They prefer a sheltered, shady spot. Height and spread 13ft (4m) in 20 years.
A. palmatum
Five- to seven-lobed yellowish leaves bordered with pink in spring, turning green in summer and orange in autumn. Best in partial shade. Height and spread 8ft (2.4m) in 20 years.
A. japonicum
Emerging bright green in the spring, the deeply cut palmate leaves turn a beautiful shade of crimson in the autumn, adding vibrancy to the garden. Height 13ft (4m) in 20 years.
A. palmatum
This variety bears light green and white mottled leaves to resemble fluffy clouds. The foliage then turns orange-red in autumn. Best in partial shade. Height 10ft (3m) in 20 years.
A. shirasawanum shirasawanum
A compact acer, which is golden yellow in summer, turning a warm red-brown. Best grown in partial shade. Compact, reaching 13ft (4m) in height in 20 years.
A. palmatum
Deeply cut, dark red-purple leaves, turning to blood red in autumn. They create a striking effect against crushed slate. Height and spread to 13ft (4m) in 20 years.
A. palmatum
This tough acer can take more exposed sites. Its jagged, seven-lobed leaves open rich purple, turn green, then redden. Height 8ft (2.4m); spread 5ft (1.5m) in 20 years.
A. palmatum
An elegant, arching acer, with deep purple foliage, almost fern-like in appearance, turning to orange in autumn. Place in a sheltered spot. Height and spread 8ft (2.4m) in 20 years.
A. palmatum
Also known as coral-barked maple, this acer grows to 13ft (4m) over 20 years. Its leaves open pinkish-yellow, turning to green in summer, then yellow in autumn.
Virginia Woolf, To the Lighthouse
“And all the lives we ever lived and all the lives to be are full of trees and changing leaves”
winter by wrapping the pot in a sheet of bubble wrap or insulation material, held in place with twine.
Health and maintenance
Japanese maples are very easy to care for. Little pruning is required unless it is to improve the shape of the tree or to remove dying stems, or badly-placed shoots. If pruning does become necessary, it should be carried out in January or early February, when the shape of the bare tree is visible. Pruning when in leaf is best avoided, as the plant will bleed sap. Prostrate-growing varieties should be left unpruned: allowing them to spread naturally will give the best effect.
Provided the quality of the soil is good, Japanese maples will not require much feeding, although a balanced fertiliser, added once a year in spring, will be of benefit.
Japanese maples are particularly vulnerable to frost when they come into leaf in spring, and this can lead to burning of the foliage. They need a frost-free spot in the garden or protection with horticultural fleece, should an April frost be forecast. If the maple is in a pot which can be moved easily, it can be transferred to a greenhouse until the frost has passed.
Vine weevils can also be a problem for maples grown in pots. These pests usually feast on the roots from summer to spring, and in extreme cases can lead to the death of the plant. If there are any signs of the ½in (1cm) grubs near the roots of the tree, they should be removed along with any adult vine weevil beetles.
Planting partners
Japanese maples work beautifully alongside most plants, from acid-loving azaleas to shade-loving Fatsia japonica; low-growing spring bulbs, such as crocus and cyclamen; or foliage plants, such as heucheras, ferns and hostas. But no matter which partner plants are chosen, the maple will be the star of the show come autumn.
Whether it is part of the landscaping, in a bed or border, as a centrepiece on a patio, in sunshine or in shade, their rich diversity in colour, foliage, size and shape means there is a Japanese maple for every garden.