Walk on a brooding moor of hidden treasures

A path to Winter Hill in the brooding woodland of South Lancashire reveals stone relics, gleaming waters and a hidden garden

ADELICATE DRAPERY OF pale mist hangs over the West Pennine Moors in South Lancashire. Its diaphanous wisps move and swell almost imperceptibly over open moorland of tussock grass and wild bilberry, and through the wooded cloughs that etch into the contours of the landscape. From its filmy veil, a long ribbon of grey hills rises to dominate the skyline, like cresting waves against the pale blue of the January sky. Of these summits, perhaps the most notable is Bolton’s patron hill, crowned by an unexpected forest of transmitter towers.

In summer, the hill slumbers contentedly above the plains of north Manchester, straddling the boroughs of Chorley, Bolton and Blackburn with Darwen; broody and dark-hued, like a grey nimbus cloud. But in winter, it assumes a more prolific presence. With the advent of bracing winds and silver-grey frost coating the landscape in its icy sheen, it becomes a place of desolate beauty, a white-woven moor top that is a beacon for walkers as far afield as the Peak District and the Forest of Bowland. Aptly named Winter Hill, it is a hill best traversed on a winter’s day.

A circular route of approximately 5 miles explores Rivington Moor, part of the West Pennine Moors, taking in towering structures and ancient woodland concealing hidden treasures, before crossing open moorland to reach the summit of Winter Hill. After a pause to admire the extensive views, the route eventually bears south-west to come full circle.

Emerging from the Lower House car park in the hamlet of Rivington, sitting just north of Horwich, the walk begins on a broad, gravel track, with an immediate junction. This area is popular with walkers, and many of the bridleways and footpaths provide access to the hillside, the track bearing left eventually leading to Belmont Road, which contours the north-western edge of Rivington Moor to join another path that curves up the northern edge of the hill. However, this walk ventures right, taking in a woodland route on a track known as Roynton Lane. This ascends under a dense canopy of mixed deciduous and coniferous trees to reach open moorland, with the summit of Rivington Pike and Winter Hill rising beyond.

“A sad tale’s best for winter”

William Shakespeare, The Winter’s Tale

The path is a gentle climb and, as it rises, the sound of distant cars gradually falls away to a muffled drone, interspersed only by an occasional gust of wind that ruffles the branches overhead, and the faint sound of birdsong. Shafts of winter light filter through bare branches to cast dancing shadows across the well-trodden leaves; a sign of the numbers this walk brings each day.

Bridge of arches

The trail is not too strenuous, though the gravel track can become uneven in places. After approximately 656yds (600m) the first landmark of the walk is reached. An impressive Romanesque-style bridge comes into view, with its main stone arch looming across the width of the path. Above the arch is a viaduct of seven smaller supporting arches, each adorned with a voussoir of gritstone slates.

Ivy-leaved toadflax, Cymbalaria muralis, creeps into the nooks and crevices of the brickwork, its tendrils curling over the ashen grey stone. From April to October, this trailing plant bears tiny purple flowers that look like miniature snapdragons, but at this time of year, only the reddish tinge of the stems and leaves are visible. A haze of leafless branches partially obscures the approaches to the bridge, as if it is slowly merging into the surroundings.

Known to locals as the Seven Arch Bridge, or Lever Bridge, it was commissioned by William Hesketh Lever, an English industrialist and philanthropist, who made his fortune in the manufacturing of soap from vegetable oil. Built in 1910, the design was inspired by a similar seven-arch bridge, which Lever discovered on his travels in Nigeria.

From this direction, it is evident that the deck is not typically horizontal, but rises slightly to the east, with stone parapets and hidden staircases that flank both the east and west sides. These descend onto other woodland trails that weave throughout the hillside.

Rivington was once the heartland of the Lever family. In 1900, William Lever, also known as Lord Leverhulme in honour of his wife, Elizabeth Ellen Hulme, bought land belonging to the Manor of Rivington, which encompassed the 45 acres of wooded hillside where this bridge now nestles. In 1901, he offered to donate a portion to Bolton Corporation for a public park, keeping the remaining land for his own house and gardens. Lever Park, which spans 364 acres between the villages of Rivington and Horwich, was

eventually gifted to the people of Bolton; a significant reminder of his influence in the area. But perhaps his greatest legacy lies further up the hillside: a hidden treasure concealed beneath the leafless canopy of the trees.

Leaving the bridge behind, the trail continues, flanked on either side by thick brambles and the coarse fronds of reddish-brown ferns, tinged in places by a silvery frost where the sun is yet to touch. From here, the sound of birdsong is more noticeable. Goldcrests, Regulus regulus, with their greyish-green plumage and golden-tangerine crests, perch among the conifers, rolling out their high-pitched twill that is almost imperceptible as they flutter among the foliage. More striking is the common chaffinch, Fringilla coelebs; its fluting song echoing in the canopy above as it alerts other birds to its presence. Treecreepers have also been spotted in the area, and on a good day, they can be seen on the rough bark of the trees using their slender, downcurved bills to forage for insects.

Terraced gardens

The short ascent eventually reaches Lever’s magnum opus: Rivington Terraced Gardens. Now Grade II listed, they were one of three private gardens partially designed by landscape architect Thomas Hayton Mawson in collaboration with Lever. After buying the land, which included the area now occupied by Lever Park, Lever commissioned Mawson to design the hillside garden in 1905, as a place to entertain and regale guests with views across his home town of Bolton.

The Seven Arch Bridge sits at the northern end of the gardens, with Roynton Lane as the main thoroughfare. They are filled with sculpted delights, including interconnecting manmade caves, hidden ponds and sculpted waterfalls, which can all be explored at leisure, with numerous pathways interweaving up the hillside. Many of the paths are formed from irregular-shaped flags as well as steep stone steps and paths with low-flanking, gritstone walls.

It is worth spending some time here, if only to visit the remains of the formal lawns, which include the Italian Garden, Japanese Garden and the former Orchestra Lawn. Most noteworthy is the Japanese Garden in the upper terraces, with its sculpted waterfall, which cascades over a steep cliff of rockwork to tumble into a shimmering lake below. Natural streams were diverted to fill this lake, which continue westward to form a series of cascades and a manmade ravine. Evident remains of a Japanese-style teahouse can be discovered here, and a cultivated variety of weeping ash, Fraxinus excelsior, can be seen near the lakeside. The lake also affords views to the summit of Rivington Pike.

Ornamental shrubs of gaultheria, berberis and rhododendron grow with wild abandon in this part of the garden, highlighting Mawson’s original planting. In the mixed canopy, sycamore, oak, birch and sweet chestnut flourish, with Scot’s pine, Pinus sylvestris, also finding footing among the stone structures.

Most of the buildings are now gone, and much has fallen into disrepair following Lever’s death in 1925. Trailing ivy

clings to the remains of stone walls, mottled with lichen and tufts of soft moss. Bracken lines the paths, and fallen leaves of burnished yellow and burnt umber litter the stone steps. Conservation groups have cleared many of the overgrown paths and restored some of the original stonework so that the gardens can continue to be enjoyed. But, standing in winter’s hushed quiet, there is still an overwhelming sense that nature is slowly reclaiming these beautiful, derelict structures.

Following the main track to the upper terraces, a kissing gate is soon reached, followed by a broad track and another gate. Beyond this, the trees begin to thin out, and the woodland shade is left behind for open moorland. Without the shelter of the trees, wind billows over the moors, carrying with it the smell of damp earth. This exposed land would have provided favourable hunting grounds for Mesolithic hunters, and evidence of flint arrowheads, blades, scrapers and gravers, believed to be dated circa 1100BC, have all been unearthed on the moors.

Path to the Pike

Joining a grassy path, the tantalising knobble of Rivington Pike emerges, adorned by an 18th century gritstone hunting lodge. From here, the trail to the Pike is obvious and will be the last point before making the ascent to Winter Hill.

Standing at 1191ft (363m) above sea level, the summit of Rivington Pike historically served as a beacon, put in place by Ranulf de Blundeville, fourth Earl of Chester, following a Scottish raid in 1138. The beacon was one of a series that became part of England’s integral defence network to forewarn of dangers, which included the approach of the Spanish Armada in 1588.

Billowing flames have continued to flicker near the Pike, most recently for the coronation of King George V in 1910; to mark the end of both World Wars, and to celebrate the Silver and Diamond Jubilees of Queen Elizabeth II.

The square tower which now occupies the site uses some of the original stone from the fire platform to form its foundations. The building was constructed for solicitor John Andrews in 1733, after he came into possession of the Rivington estate in 1729. Like his ancient ancestors, Andrews took advantage of the wild moorland for his grouse-shooting parties, the building providing welcome shelter from the harsh elements.

The hunting was stopped when Lever bought the land, and the door and windows have since been blocked up to prevent vandalism. In its single room is a fireplace, which formerly had a chimney, and a small cellar. The building is now considered a local landmark and is Grade II listed.

The climb to the peak offers the option of a direct route along a well-worn path or a more obscure, but shallower, route that gently curves up the hillside, reaching the summit from the north side.

Peak of winter

From the top, the moorland widens out further, and the great bulk of Winter Hill rises; its main transmitter standing stark at 1015ft (309m) tall against the muted sky. A pearly roil of cloud gathers above, bestowing the hill with an air of

prominence among its surroundings. The Norsemen called it Wintyrheld; the origins of the word ‘winter’ bound up with the word ‘wet’, therefore meaning ‘the wet hill’. And even on a dry day, there is some justice to this name.

From Rivington Pike, the trek across the moor is just over a mile and can be excessively boggy in places, the thin seal of ice giving way to soft mud underneath. The path widens and becomes less distinguished here, with stone slabs and wooden walkways for ease of footing.

Upon reaching the flank of hillside, the effort for the climb is rewarded by views over the peppered rooftops of Bolton, speckled with white. To the south, the distant spires of Manchester rise, and beyond them, the undulating hills of the Peak District beckon. As winter light breaks through downy clouds, shadows move and shift across the landscape; the warmth of the sun tempered by the chilled winds.

Passing between two outer anchor struts of masts to locate the service road, the route curves sharply to the left, eventually reaching the trigonometrical, or trig point, marking the highest point of Winter Hill. Often the sole embellishment of a summit, the pillar is rendered insignificant among the cluster of low buildings and masts serving every purpose, from air traffic control to emergency services communications.

The tallest hill in the West Pennine Moors, its prominent position makes Winter Hill ideal for this digital forest; the main TV mast transmits to approximately 7 million people across the North West of England. The electrical hum of communication permeates the quiet isolation of the hilltop, made more eerie by the wind as it rattles the support struts of the masts. Overhead, a kestrel hovers against the strong gales. This is the latest in a long line of hunters that have scoured the moors.

On a clear winter’s day from the OS trig point, the ever-changing colours of the Irish Sea can be visible in the west, with Snowdonia and the Isle of Man far in the distance. Towards the north, the Yorkshire Dales and the bottom end of the Lake District pan out to a hazy horizon. Winter Hill is one of few summits that can boast a view of four national parks. On some days, it is even possible to glimpse the tip of Blackpool Tower as it prods the skyline on the Fylde coast.

With its sheer scale and vast views, it is no wonder the hill is considered one of the highlights of the West Pennine Way, a new 46-mile trail that aims to give prominence to these often-overlooked hills.

“And so we pass’d Over the hills, unto what seem’d a brink O’er looking half a world”

Bessie Rayner Parkes, ‘The Moors’

The clouds above are now the colour of iron, and as icy droplets pitter, it is time to return to the road, which passes more transmitter masts to reach the ridge and a steep descent.

Following the path as it wends its way beside a tumbledown wall and through a kissing gate, the route turns left at a sign posted Blackburn with Darwen. Continuing 200yds (183m), a second left joins another track that passes a plantation; eventually leading back to the woodland at the start of the walk.

Peaceful haven

The route has now come almost full circle. There is an option to descend back through the wood or to take the cobbled and stone-strewn track known as Belmont Road, which skirts the woodland to pass the Dovecote Tower, marking the north-east boundary of the terraced gardens.

Otherwise known as the Pigeon Tower, the building is a final reminder of the history that wends and weaves its way through the area. Erected by Lever in 1910, it consists of four floors, accessible by a winding stone staircase. The first two floors were home to ornamental doves and pigeons, most likely giving the tower its name. The upper floor originally housed a small sitting room, with four mullioned windows on two sides, offering extensive views of the surrounding countryside. It is believed to have been fitted with musical instruments and sewing equipment for Lever’s wife, providing a place of peaceful respite.

Open to the public on specific days, the tower is a great way to end the walk. Inside, an emblem above the fireplace bears the letters: ‘WHEEL’, indicating the initials of William

Hesketh and Elizabeth Ellen Lever. Now that the story of the landscape is known, the history and significance can be appreciated all the more as the track returns to the car park.

The darkening swell of Rivington Pike and the mighty hill beyond are now fading into the gloaming. But while the moorland embraces the descending darkness, a constellation of lights glows red on the hillside, a sign of hundreds of miles of communication seeping into the darkness. This is more than just a hill. It is a hill of mist, mud and cold comfort; ancient history woven with modern technology. Above all, it is a hill called Winter.

Please note that in light of the current situation, restrictions should be observed, so please check before travelling.

From top: A chill, dank January day only adds to the atmosphere on Rivington Moor in Lancashire, as walkers discover hidden pools in the riven rock and pass under the austere scalloped design of the dramatic Seven Arch Bridge and the firework-shaped Pigeon Tower.

Steps enclosed within the flanks of the arched bridge lead down to where treelined trails beckon to be explored (above).

Straddling the route, where straggly, frostcovered stems creep onto the broad pathway, is the largest arch of the slanting Lever Bridge.

With its rusty-red underparts, a chaffinch stands out among the stark branches, where its loud song can often be heard.

A treecreeper, Certhia familiaris, with its curved beak, blends in with the craggy bark and lichen.

A stepped waterfall beneath a bridge in Rivington Terraced Gardens catches the eye among winter’s earthy landscape as it spills down between fans of fern into a pool below.

Another archway on a flagstone path lit by the sun filtering through skeletal branches (top left).

The dark water of a large pond catches the pale winter light in William Lever’s beguiling gardens, where buildings, including summer houses from its glory days, still stand to be enjoyed on this walk.

Leaf-strewn stone steps take the walker up to conflicting pathways under the shady canopy (left).

Low cloud rumbles over Horwich and beyond, draping a grey veil over the landmarks and rooftops stretching into the horizon.

A view across the stark moorland, enhanced by the glow of fading light, to Rivington Pike. Its towering square lodge, like a distant chimney on top, looks onto a sea of mist rolling across the valley below.

Passing through a wooden gate, the path wends its way to the summit of the Pike.

The squat former hunting lodge had a wooden roof, three windows and a door, which are now bricked up.

Returning to the start of the walk via the Pigeon Tower. Originally called the Lookout Tower, then the Dovecote Tower, it was designed by Thomas Mawson who liked to create a focal point in gardens.

The descent down frosty steps from the Pike affords views over the fields and Lower Rivington Reservoir.