Landscape (UK)

CHURCH OF TWO ERAS

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A short passageway between two banks in the centre of Penrith leads to St Andrew’s Church. It is a church of two parts, with the main building, built in 1720, abutting a 13th century tower, with walls of red sandstone rubble 6ft (2m) thick. Outside, some of the grave markers are even older. The Giant’s Grave, on the northern aspect, dates from the 10th century and is marked by two Anglican cross shafts, approximat­ely 12ft (3.6m) tall, and four hogback stones, each approximat­ely 6ft (2m) long. All are highly decorated with interlaced patterns; some engraved with human or animal figures. The size and grandeur of the grave has given rise to several legends. One tells that this is the resting place of the mythical giant Sir Ewan, who lived in the Giant’s Caves, still marked on maps, on the banks of the River Eamont. Another says that it is the tomb of Owen Caesarius, crowned King of Cumberland in 920AD. He is said to have erected the Giant’s Thumb, a wheelhead cross nearby dated to the same year, in memory of his father. Though now heavily weathered, it was once engraved with images of Christ flanked by two figures, interprete­d as Longinus the spearman and Stephaton the sponge bearer, with a serpent curled above. This may possibly be connected to its use as a pillory post at some point in its history. More recent is the story of local woman Mary Noble, who died in 1823, aged 107, allegedly spinning yarn until three months before her death. Her grave can be found near the war memorial at the church entrance. It is worth taking a few minutes to wander the quiet pathways framing the yard. Here, there are fine examples of Georgian houses and a Tudor house, once Dame Birkett’s School, attended by William and Dorothy Wordsworth.

 ??  ?? St Andrew’s tower gave shelter during conflict (left). James Walker’s The History of Penrith, 1857, says the Giant’s Grave was likely used for multiple burials (right).
St Andrew’s tower gave shelter during conflict (left). James Walker’s The History of Penrith, 1857, says the Giant’s Grave was likely used for multiple burials (right).
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