FARMS’ EXOTIC ROOTS
At its fields in Dorset and Hampshire, a company grows an unusual vegetable guaranteed to heat up various dishes
THE GENTLE SUSURRATION of rain is softened by a thin veil of viridescent leaves that have not long burst from the bud. Concealed beneath the dappled canopy, a promise of new life manifests in the speckled, pale blue eggs of a Song thrush, cushioned in a carefully constructed nest. Elsewhere, blooms tightly folded are succumbing to nature’s agenda; gossamer petals, glistening with droplets, unfurling to reveal a kaleidoscope of colours. The once slumbering countryside is awakening to proclaim the new season.
But, for a vegetable not associated with the UK, the growing season is in full force. Accustomed to the stream beds in the mountain river valleys of Japan, flourishing under the shade of large, overhanging trees, this perennial brassica has found a natural footing on farms deep in the rolling hills of both Dorset and Hampshire. A difficult crop to cultivate, they are the only commercial growers of this vegetable in the UK, considered to be the most expensive, and highly prized, in the world: Wasabia japonica, otherwise known as wasabi, or Japanese horseradish.
The Wasabi Company has been nurturing fresh wasabi for more than 10 years. “The seed to do so was formed after a chef, visiting the watercress beds of our sister company, commented that the only other produce he’d seen growing in similar conditions was wasabi,” says founder Jon Old. “We were intrigued and, on further investigation, realised our unique position to recreate the wild conditions for this plant in specially adapted, unused Victorian watercress beds on our farms.”
Wasabi’s ideal growing conditions are often referred to as the ‘Goldilocks climate’, as in ‘just right’, needing a balance of water, temperature and light. “Wasabi likes a constant flow of water delivering nutrients and dissolved oxygen, but too much and the roots will not thrive and cease to hold the plant. Conversely, too little and the plant will dry up and grow poorly,” explains Jon. On the farms, the vegetable takes advantage of naturally abundant fresh water, rich in nutrients and minerals, which comes from artesian springs 131ft (40m) below, bubbling to the surface of gravel beds adapted for the plant’s cultivation. A special gauze offers ample shade, protecting the leaves from direct sunlight as well as the worst of the frost in winter. These controlled conditions have meant that the vegetable can be harvested all year round.
The stem, or rhizome, is formed at the base of the plant and grows upwards above the ground, taking approximately two
years to reach maturity. Once harvested, the roots are trimmed with a knife, and the plant is washed thoroughly. “This is always an event: it is only when the whole plant is pulled that you can see what you have yielded,” says Jon.
The flavour of wasabi is produced when the rhizome is finely grated, breaking down the cell walls and causing an enzyme reaction that produces the plant’s unique, pungent heat with a natural sweetness. This will dissipate in approximately 20 minutes, which is why wasabi is always grated freshly at the table. Imitation versions bought in packets are often made up of horseradish, mustard, colourings and additives to emulate the flavour, with only a small percentage of real wasabi included.
In April, the long stems bear delicately scented, white flowers, which can be eaten raw or fried in batter. The large, heart-shaped leaves can also be harvested to spice up salads. “Nothing from the plant goes to waste. We’ve developed a wide range of products flavoured with our own fresh English wasabi, including Wasabi Vodka, which is now exported to Japan.”
Spring is a special time on the farms. “The countryside is bursting to life, and the birdsong provides a backing track of nature’s greatest hits. Animal and plant life is in full pomp, and the warm temperatures make for rapid growth that outpaces pests and diseases at other times of the year. Our springs are the lifeblood of our farms and will be running strong with water after winter, providing optimal growing conditions,” explains Jon. “There is no finer place than the English countryside in these vibrant, lush and heady days.”