RUCK and ROLL
All eyes will soon be on Tokyo for the Rugby World Cup. SIMON MURFITT provides food for thought if you’re thinking of a visit
IWAS feeling nervous about approaching the plate of raw fish and rice in front of me, especially as this was the first time in my life trying Japanese food. But all of my order had yet to arrive at my table. And my nerves weren’t helped when I saw one of the chefs approaching a big tank full of swimming fish.
Two minutes later, one of the unfortunate mackerel had been whipped out, chopped up, and was now looking up at me.
At this point it became clear this trip would be like none other I had experienced. And I was right, in a good way.
Tokyo offered two extremes of culture: one a bustling, futuristic city that never sleeps, the other a haven of peaceful mindfulness.
And the two somehow manage to co-exist right on top of each other.
Japan hosts the Rugby World Cup from September 20 to November – and it’s a year before the 2020 Tokyo Olympics.
I would definitely recommend that sports fans make a holiday out of it. Or, indeed, anyone wanting to experience a completely different culture.
Especially if you like fresh fish. My initial sushi experience only served to make food more daunting, but I went home a complete convert.
There are so many restaurants in Tokyo – streets that are lined with eight-storey buildings with different restaurants on each level – it’s a good idea to make a plan of where to go before you arrive.
Eateries will normally specialise in one type of cuisine, so here are a few to try.
■ YAKITORI: Skewered chicken and veg cooked over charcoal.
We started off with chicken breast, before taking a tour around
the animal’s body, including tail, gizzard and liver. It was nice to know there would be little wastage and it was a good sociable meal with new skewers brought out every few minutes.
Torikei in the Shinjuku area is recommended for this. There are also several restaurants, some with space for just around five visitors, packed into Omoide Yokocho near Shijuku Station.
We stopped in one for a few drinks after dinner one night, but decided against ordering from a yakitori menu that included raw chicken.
■ UNAGI: Barbecued eel served over a bed of rice.
Some may be put off by eel, but it tasted similar to common white fish we have in the UK. A good, hearty lunch that gave us the energy for a day of exploring.
I would recommend Gansounatetsu in the Shibuja area for this.
■ KAISEKI: Japan’s haute cuisine This is a special meal that locals might have only around 10 times in their lives.
Ours was provided by our hotel in a traditional Japanese restaurant setting with private rooms for each group, and tatami flooring.
It’s well worth trying for a traditional experience over several courses, with sake rice wine.
■ SOBA: Noodles made from buckwheat. Ours were served cold alongside a plate of tempura veg and the biggest prawn I had ever eaten. The best place for these is the Chofu area, where several restaurants line the quiet, leafy streets heading to the Jindai-ji temple. We ate in a restaurant called Yuusui and loved it.
Meanwhile, if you’re looking for a great shopping city that never sleeps, then Tokyo certainly won’t disappoint. Shoppers looking for high fashion, tech or souvenirs have everything – absolutely everything
– they could ask for, and more.
Just walking around the streets, with the bright lights of the huge advertising boards, is an experience in itself – as is attempting to board a train on the subway system at rush hour!
The cinema, overlooked by a giant Godzilla, and arcades stay open into the early hours, while the streets of the Golden Gai area are packed with tiny, quirky bars.
Away from the hustle and bustle, there is another side to Japan, one of serenity and calm.
After visiting the Senso-Ji temple – the city’s busiest temple for tourists, with throngs of crowds and souvenir shops – the Nogi-jinja shrine in Roppongi was a breath of fresh air, especially while trying to stave off jet lag from the flight.
This is a Samurai shrine set in around 2½ acres of greenery and a great place for a walk while taking in some history. For an even quieter retreat, head to the Chofu area, where there is the Jindai-ji temple. Twice a day you can see the monks carry out the ancient fire ceremony.
I enjoyed a tea ceremony experience at my hotel, where I learned the tradition, and also how to purify myself, which should be done before approaching a temple or shrine.
One of the most interesting experiences of the trip was at the National Noh Theatre, where we saw a performance by an actress who then taught us about the history of the theatre. She coached us on how to move around the stage with a mask on, and we even had a chance to try singing.
This experience was organised by my hotel, although full performances are also regularly available, with screens for translations on the back of the seat in front of you.
That’s the thing about Tokyo. It’s remarkably different, offering the best of all worlds, but nothing is lost in translation.