Whole firepit salmon with preserved lemon relish

Serves 8 generously

For the lemon relish

* 3 preserved lemons, drained and quartered * Handful flat-leaf parsley, chopped

* 70g green olives, stoned and chopped * 2tbsp extra virgin olive oil

For the salmon

* 1 lemon, sliced into rounds * 1 bunch dill, chopped

* 2.4kg whole salmon, gutted * Salt and freshly ground black pepper To make the relish, combine all the ingredients in a small dish – you only need a little as the flavours are strong. Set aside until needed. Stuff the lemon slices and dill into the salmon cavity, seasoning well. Lay out a large sheet of baking paper and put the salmon on top. Wrap up tightly, twisting the ends like a Christmas cracker. This is where it is sensible to move outside, near to a hose or outdoor tap. Take 12 sheets of brown paper or 12 double broadsheet newspaper pages, arrange them into layers of 2 or 3 sheets/pages and thoroughly soak with water. Wrap each damp layer around the salmon, finishing with a further slosh of water. Then wrap the whole lot in a sheet of wet hessian, tying into a neat parcel with string. The fire or barbecue embers should be white and ashen and glowing in places, with no hint of flame remaining. Carefully place one small, wet log on the coals and cover with the metal grate. Lay the salmon parcel on this and cover with the barbecue lid (or a metal dustbin lid if cooking on a firepit). Leave to cook for 50 minutes-1 hour, depending on the size of the fish, until the salmon flesh is just cooked. Alternatively, wrap the stuffed fish in one layer of non-stick baking paper and one layer of foil, then bake in an oven preheated to 180°C/fan 160°C/gas 4 for 50 minutes, or until the fish just flakes when pressed. Unwrap carefully and transfer to a platter, ready to serve at the table with the relish.