Stir it up in Jamaica
Venture beyond the sun lounger and discover why there’s more to the country than beach-hopping and rum punch, says PRIYA JOSHI
‘NO WOMAN, no cry,” sings our tour guide at the Bob Marley Museum. He serenades us with his impressive vocal talents as he shows us around the grand former home and recording studio of the Jamaican icon on Hope Road, in the heart of Kingston.
With his exaggerated patois, his super-chilled vibe and a tendency to explain everything through Marley’s lyrics, our guide is the personification of all the clichés you’ve ever heard about Jamaica.
There’s no denying the laidback attitude of the people and the sense of decadence that comes with lounging under the shadows of palm trees on Jamaica’s pristine sandy beaches.
But there is much more to discover in this country.
SPILL THE BEANS
JAMAICA is famous for its rum, but it’s also the home of some of the world’s finest coffee.
Hidden away in the Blue Mountains, the longest mountain range in Jamaica extending between Kingston to the south and Port Antonio to the north, and a world away from the bustle of the city, you’ll find the Craighton Coffee Estate in Irish Town.
Introduced to Jamaica in 1728, the red berries of the Arabica coffee bean are highly prized, and coffees certified by the Coffee Industry Board of Jamaica are considered to be some of the best in the world.
Picked by local women, the beans go through an intensive selection process and are medium-roasted and ground on site, while whole beans are also retained for use as the flavor base in Tia Maria.
Some 70% of the ground beans find their way to Japan where the coffee is sold for $30 a cup.
Taken with condensed milk, as is the local preference, the rich aroma of the Blue Mountain coffee fills the air and the sweet taste lingers on the tongue.
■ How much? Craighton Estate Coffee tour costs £20.
BOP TO BOB ... AND MORE
AT THE Trenchtown Culture Yard, a former 1930s housing project that
has been transformed into a makeshift museum housing music memorabilia from the early years of the Jamaican music scene, we receive an education in the philosophy of Bob Marley.
While his far-reaching influence can be felt on every street corner, the sounds of Jamaica go beyond the musical icon.
At 11pm, under the cloak of darkness, we journey into the depths of the Blue Mountains’ forests where reggae beats pulsate from an otherwise unassuming homestead.
This is the Kingston Dub Club, a place where time seems to stand still as the music plays and a crowd gathers in a sweet smoke-filled yard, gyrating to infectious rhythms.
The sound reflects another aspect of Jamaican spirit, where the motto is seemingly ‘play it loud’.
■ How much? Entry to Trenchtown Culture Yard costs £9.
MAKE A SPLASH
THE soft, sandy beaches may appeal to the honeymooners, but the luscious vegetation of Jamaica also presents an unspoiled paradise.
Set in the hills above Ocho Rios at Island Gully Falls, a short trek through exotic forest leads you to a cove where enchanted tourists are hypnotically drawn to the crystal waterfalls and enticed to walk through the rushing water, while the more adventurous swing on a rope or leap off the mountain rock into a cold pool.
For an adventure on dry land, follow the waterfall trail at Holywell Nature Park, a moderate walk of 1.3km, that only takes an hour and is free to do.
Surrounded by 50 varieties of fern, hikers are led to a view of the valley and the Blue Mountains, culminating in a 4.5-metre cascading stream to cool off in.
■ How much? Entry to Holywell Park costs £8. Guided tours cost £40 for groups of one to 10.
KNEE-JERK REACTION
JERK chicken with rice and peas is a favourite staple in Jamaica, and while the spicy seasoning is used to flavour many dishes, there are a variety of local delicacies to challenge the palate.
Follow in the footsteps of Marilyn Monroe at the luxurious Jamaica Inn at Ocho Rios, where you can experience an authentic Jamaican breakfast of ackee and saltfish for £15, as the sun rises over the white sands.
Popular with the locals, Triple T’z in Kingston is an eclectic eatery, where beer bottles serve as chandeliers.
Spicy kidney-bean broth precedes hearty meals of oxtail and goat curry with sweet plantain, while bubble gum-pink oti apple makes for a refreshing juice. Expect to pay £15 for a two-course meal with drinks.
At the Great House, a former plantation in Yaaman Adventure Park, you can experience a Flavours of Jamaica cooking lesson, set in the perfectly pruned ornamental gardens. On the veranda, a hot griddle gr smokes as we try our hand han at cooking jerk chicken and callaloo c with crunchy fried dough fe festivals (a type of dumpling).
Meanwhile, Meanwhile Devon House, home of Jamaica’s first black millionaire, George Stiebel, is famed just as much for its custom-made ice cream as for its grandeur, and it has the distinction of being voted the world’s fourth best ice-cream by National Geographic. At I-Scream you’ll find the creamiest of confections with 27 exotic flavours – fruit basket and sour sop, anyone? – served in £3 waffle cones.
■ How much? A Yaaman Plantation Tour and Cookery Class costs £38.50.
ISLE BE DAMNED!
GET a glimpse of the palatial holiday homes of the rich and famous, with a boat tour around Pellew Island.
The boatmen are ready and waiting, so there’s no booking in advance.
Honeymooners are spotted posing for photos against the vegetation as they float leisurely along the blue-green fresh and salt-waters, through the mineral spring of the Blue Lagoon.
Our final stop is Frenchman’s Cove Resort, an exclusive 45-acre private estate in Jamaica.
It’s the perfect end to the trip, as we paddle in the refreshing hot and cold-water streams, dive into the ocean, and bask in the sun on the soft beach with a newfound skill for chilling, Jamaica style. ■ How much? £30 for a 45-minute ride.