A talk on the sari
ON TUESDAY June 6, a good gathering of members and friends attended the Charnwood Antique &
Collectors’ Club meeting to hear a talk on the Sari by Mrs. Sudha Amin.
She said that the word Sari meant a ‘strip of cloth’ and was 5,000 years old! In the history of Indian clothing the sari is traced back to the Indus Valley Civilisation, which flourished during 2800–1800 BC around the north-western part of the India.
Cotton was first cultivated and woven in Indian subcontinent around 5th millennium BC.
Dyes used during this period are still in use, particularly indigo, lac, red madder and turmeric. Silk was woven around 2450 BC and 2000 BC.
The sari evolved from a three-piece ensemble comprising the Antriya, the lower garment; the Uttariya; a veil worn over the shoulder or the head; and the Stanapatta, around the chest.
She said that it had also evolved from a garment that had a ‘fishtail’ which was passed between the legs and tucked in at the waist. Men as well as women wore this garment called a Antriya.
Between 2nd century B.C to 1st century AD the Antriya and the Uttartiva were combined into what is now known as the Sari. At first when the sari was worn, it had no petticoats, but these introduced later by the British. One of the good things about a sari, was that it fitted all shapes and sizes.
Mrs. Amin said that there are more than 80 recorded ways to wear a sari. The most common style is for the sari to be wrapped around the waist, with the loose end of the drape to be worn over the shoulder, baring the midriff.
Also, there were over 500 different varieties of colours. At first most came from natural materials found in plants and trees, each piece of cloth being died by hand, with no two-colour shades being the same. Now mainly 50 colours are used.
The material generally used is silk, however there are some cotton ones still to be found, but they are very expensive. Many, many different designs are produced. Some very simple and some very intricate. Patterns changed with the times. She said that white sarees were usually worn as a sign of mourning, yellow used for a birth.
All through her talk, Mrs. Amin produced numerous sarees from a small suitcase she had brought with her. Some were her own, including her wedding sari, and some were from her collection.
Everyone marvelled at the exquisite designs and needlework. Some sarees are still hand sewn and decorated by hand. Again, being most expensive.
She said that a Sari could be anything from £20 to £50,000! It was noted that a gold colour featured prominently in some of the designs. She said that it was indeed a thread of real gold. The thread being brought over to India by the Mongols. The sari was therefore, a type of dowry.
She also said that many sarees were bought and worn only once! After her talk, the Chairman, Rowland thanked Mrs. Amin for her interesting talk and for bringing along such a large number of sarees that kept on emerging from her suitcase. Pandora’s Box came to mind. Mrs. Amin then answered many questions from the members and invited members to try them on, (the female ones of course) with Mrs. Amin demonstrating the correct way to wear them.
The chairman, then informed members that the next meeting would be on 12th September. Please note the date change. And would be the AGM. He wished everyone a good holiday break. RFT.