Techniques

LEARN THE BASICS OF EACH STAGE OF YOUR EMBROIDERY PROJECTS

HOW TO TRANSFER

TRACING

Place light-coloured and fine fabrics over the design and trace over it. For thicker or dark-coloured fabrics a light source such as a window or lightbox makes this process much simpler.

TRANSFER PENS AND PENCILS

Choose a colour that will show up on the fabric. Use a permanent marker if the stitching will cover the lines, or a removable marker if you need to erase the lines afterwards – test first on a scrap of fabric so you know it can be removed.

IRON-ON TRANSFERS

Press your fabric, then place your transfer sheet ink side down on top and press with a hot, dry iron (taking care with heat-sensitive fabrics). You can reuse the transfers three to four times depending on the type of fabric you use.

WATER-SOLUBLE STABILISER

This lightweight, slightly perforated paper stays on the fabric as you embroider. Once you’ve finished stitching, soak it with the fabric and it dissolves when rinsed.

CARBON PAPER

Lay the carbon paper coloured side down onto your fabric, place your pattern on the top and trace over the design.

TEAR-AWAY METHOD

This technique is used when stitching on textured fabrics like velvet and suede. Trace your design onto thin tracing or tissue paper, then tack it onto your fabric. Stitch through the fabric and paper, then carefully tear away the paper.

USING A HOOP

Place the inner ring of the hoop under the fabric directly below the area you wish to stitch. Loosen the screw on the outer ring and place this over the fabric and inner ring. Push down firmly and evenly, then tighten the screw and gently pull the edges of the fabric beyond the hoop so that it’s ‘drum tight’. Regularly check the tension of your fabric as you stitch, and adjust accordingly. If you’re using delicate fabric, begin by wrapping cotton tape around the inner ring to protect your fabric from being marked by the hoop.

HOW TO STITCH CUTTING THE THREAD

With stranded cotton, there is a ‘right’ end to pull the thread from to stop the skein tangling and knotting: the end with the longer wrapper that has the colour number. Find the cut end and gently pull. Cut thread no longer than 50cm (but for metallic threads, shorter 30cm lengths are best). To separate strands, cut a length of thread, then hold the end gently between your thumb and forefinger. Take one strand and pull it gently upwards. If you want more than one strand, separate them individually then recombine them.

STARTING A THREAD

There a few methods you can use:

Loop start If you’re stitching with two strands, cut one strand twice the length you need. Fold it in half so the two cut ends meet and thread these through your needle, leaving a loop at the other end. Bring your needle up through the fabric, then back down, threading the needle through the loop. This neat method works with any even number of strands.

Waste knot Tie a knot in the end of the thread and pull the needle and thread through the fabric, from the front to the back, near to where you’ll be working. Work stitches over the end of the thread, then cut off the knot when you reach it.

Weaving in Weave the end of the thread under the back of worked stitches.

FINISHING A THREAD

Weave the thread under the back of the stitches just worked. Start and finish all threads very securely so they don’t come undone and cut off loose ends as you go so they don’t get caught in stitching.

LEFT-HANDED STITCHERS

If you are left-handed, you may need to work some stitches differently. Please go towww. gathered. how/ love-embroidery for information for left-handed stitchers.

FINISHING

When you’ve finished stitching, gently wash your work in lukewarm water and a little mild detergent. Rinse well, adding a drop of white vinegar to the final rinse to restore the sheen of the thread. Roll the fabric in a clean towel to absorb excess water. Place a towel on an ironing board, put your embroidery face down on it with a clean cloth on top, and press until dry.

MOUNTING A HOOP

Cut the fabric 5cm bigger than the outer hoop. Cut a piece of felt the same size as the inner hoop. Mount the fabric into the hoop with the design central and the screw centre top. Work a running stitch around the fabric edge and pull to gather it. Pin the felt over the gathered fabric and stitch into place, then sew a small ring at the top to hang your hoop from.