Techniques

HOW TO TRANSFER TRACING

Place light-coloured and fine fabrics over the design and trace over it. For thicker or dark-coloured fabrics, a light source such as a window or lightbox makes this process much simpler.

TRANSFER PENS AND PENCILS

Choose a colour that will show up on the fabric. Use a permanent marker if the stitching will cover the lines, or a removable marker if you need to erase the lines afterwards – test on a scrap of fabric first so you know it can be removed.

IRON-ON TRANSFERS

Press your fabric, then place your transfer sheet ink side down on top and press with a hot, dry iron (taking care with heat-sensitive fabrics). You can reuse the transfers three to four times depending on the type of fabric you use.

WATER-SOLUBLE STABILISER

This lightweight, slightly perforated paper stays on the fabric as you embroider. Once you’ve finished stitching, soak it with the fabric and it dissolves when rinsed.

CARBON PAPER

Lay the carbon paper coloured side down onto your fabric, place your pattern on the top and trace over the design.

TEAR-AWAY METHOD

This technique is used when stitching on textured fabrics like velvet and suede. Trace your design onto thin tracing or tissue paper, then tack it onto your fabric. Stitch through the fabric and paper, then carefully tear away the paper.

HOW TO STITCH CUTTING THE THREAD

With stranded cotton, find the cut end and gently pull. Cut no longer than 40cm (30cm for metallic threads). To separate strands, cut a length of thread, then hold the end gently between your thumb and forefinger. Take one strand and pull it gently upwards. If you want more than one strand, separate them individually and then recombine.

STARTING A THREAD

Loop start If you’re stitching with two strands, cut one strand twice the length you need. Fold it in half so the two cut ends meet and thread these through your needle, leaving a loop at the other end. Bring your needle up through the fabric, then back down, threading the needle through the loop. This neat method works with any even number of strands.

Waste knot Tie a knot in the end of the thread and pull the needle and thread through the fabric, from the front to the back, near to where you’ll be working. Work stitches over the end of the thread, then cut off the knot when you reach it.

Weaving in Weave the end of the thread under the back of the worked stitches.

FINISHING A THREAD

Weave the thread under the back of the stitches just worked. Start and finish all threads very securely so they don’t come undone. Cut off loose ends as you go.

LEFT-HANDED STITCHERS

If you are left-handed, you may need to work some stitches differently. To work the stitch in the opposite direction hold the stitch guide up to a mirror.