Wine with Andy Cronshaw
TODAY is World Sauvignon Blanc Day. Not that what is perhaps the UK’s most popular white wine grape needs further publicity.
Rather than list several I thought I’d pick out my favourite Sauvignon Blanc of the year so far.
Also this week, a very impressive rosé from Croatia, a barbecue red and a dinner party fine wine from South Africa that’s worth every penny despite being just short of £25.
GARUMA SAUVIGNON BLANC, VIñA LEYDA, CHILE 2021 (Top, £10, Tesco with Clubcard) I recently covered Viña Leyda’s Reserva Pinot Noir 2020 which is as good a bottle of that particular grape variety as you’ll find for £10 (also Tesco). This Sauvignon Blanc is in the same bracket for quality and really exemplifies once again the Leyda Valley’s credentials when it comes to ‘cool climate’ grapes.
This vintage is made by Tomas Rivera and Viviana Navarette, winemakers both picked out in awards by leading Spanish and South America wine expert Tim Atkins.
It embodies the pure expression of grapes grown in the same vineyard. The nose has that distinctive green edge I associate with this region - a fusion of pepper and peas with a hedgerow/nettle background.
The palate that follows doesn’t disappoint. It’s vibrant and peachy with a leesy texture riven with a flinty minerality that compares with the best of the Loire.
KUTJEVO, ROSé 2020 (£12.49, mix of 12 Laithwaites)
The south of France doesn’t have a monopoly on great rosé and I was more than pleasantly surprised by the herbal twist of this delicate wine from Croatia. Located in Croatia’s Slavonia region, Kutjevo winery was founded by Cistercian monks in 1232 and is the oldest cellar in Croatia. It lies on the ‘45th Parallel’ (45 degrees north Latitude) - situated just south of coolclimate Burgundy and home to some of the best vineyards in the world including in Bordeaux, Rhône and Piemonte.
VIñALBA GRAN RESERVADO MALBEC 2018 (£16, Tesco)
This wine should have really made it into my Malbec round-up recently. It certainly wasn’t omitted for lack of quality. In fact of all the Malbecs sampled in my list it was one of the top scorers. It’s an intense wine with chunky, bold fruit. Aromas of coffee and cocoa are distinctively Malbec but there’s just enough oak, acidity and tannins to shape it up nicely. I can’t think of anything better with a barbecued steak.
DAVID & NADIA SADIE GRENACHE 2018 (Bottom, £26.68, Justerini & Brooks) A relatively unusual South African wine made from 100 per cent Grenache, although, that said, the grape has been slowly extending its reach across the Cape. This wine is from Swartland, one of South Africa’s burgeoning regions where youthful winemakers are experimenting and making use of the various soil types available. Granite and schist provide freshness and complexity here and this is really evident in this lithe, supple example of Grenache. For me there’s an obvious comparison with Priorat which has a similar arid climate and soil composition. There’s more dry cranberry here but a powerful herbal edge and great texture.
Although not quite as bold as Priorat, this wine is Sunday lunch or dinner party level, especially with gutsy Mediterranean-style roast lamb or a casserole.