Secret Snowdonia
Leave the tarmac behind and enjoy an incredible world of biking freedom
‘We want to soak up the scenery, but we need to stay focused’
They say Snowdonia is a paradise for walkers, but it also turns out to be a true riding nirvana with miles and miles of legal trails that take you into the heart of this stunning landscape. And unlike our rambling friends, who might manage to take in a single part of the spectacular mountain range in a day, being on a bike means that you can range far and wide. Our day starts on tarmac but, compared to the congested roads of my daily commute, it’s stunning. It’s an early start so the sun is still low in the sky and we’re shrouded by mountains which means we’re in the shadows and the narrow strip we’re following remains wet. Both bikes are fitted with our dual-purpose tyres of choice, Continental TKC80s, which need to be treated with respect on wet, cold roads, but that’s a small price to pay for the grip we know they’re going to generate the moment we hit the dirt. And while today is all about the ride, we can’t overlook the bikes we’re on: the KTM 790 Adventure R and the Yamaha Ténéré 700, two of the most anticipated adventure bikes of 2019 (see separate story, p34).
I’m happy cruising along, admiring the views when I notice Phil, my riding companion for the day, gesturing to the mountains over to our right which rise up steeply from the sea level plateau we’re currently crossing. What looked like a hill a few minutes ago no longer looks so small, in fact it’s fast resembling a mountain; a mountain that we’re going to be riding over. Within minutes of leaving the ‘main’ road we’ve crossed our first cattle grid. Initially the sheep look curious but soon they tire of our presence and carry on their very important business of eating grass. We’re still on tarmac, but with every mile that passes it gets rougher and narrower. We turn through another gate and we’re now off-road. We can see the gravel single track drop away and initially out of sight, but following an ancient stone wall you can pick it up again as it twists and turns off into the next valley and out of sight for good.
We’re in Wales, so there’s been plenty of rain, the ground is sodden and the deep gravel path has drained well but still feels lose. It means everything becomes a little vague, almost like riding in sand. To get any sort of feedback you have to stand-up on the pegs because getting weight over the front is the key to generating any level of confidence.
While the lack of grip and ridingthrough-treacle sensation was all encompassing a few minutes ago, we’re quickly starting to adapt. As our confidence grows, so does our speed. And while we’re not going fast, those extra few mph make everything easier. The front doesn’t seem so heavy and the bike feels like it’s making its way over the top of the gravel rather than ploughing through it.
We’re still running alongside the ancient stone wall and get constantly rewarded with breathtaking views over the rugged, undulating landscape. But as much as we want to soak up the scenery, we need to stay focused. Riding off-road, whatever the speed, is a test of reactions and awareness and while you need to relax, you have to stay sharp too.
Getting into the groove
Now fully warmed up and feeling more dialled into the off-road groove, I find more time to look up. A gate which needs opening allows us to grab a short breather and it’s here that I realise that the huge void off in the horizon which I thought was mist and cloud is actually the sea. And right on cue the mist lifts fully to reveal Barmouth. “It’s a lovely place,” explains Phil. “There’s a wooden bridge across the bay down there. You can ride across it but it does
‘We turn through another gate and now we’re properly off-road’
get a bit slippery when the weather is like this, so we’ll probably give it a miss today.”
As quickly as the mist cleared it’s back again. This time a thick cloud engulfs us, limiting visibility dramatically. It brings a sudden drop in temperature too so we carefully make it off the mountain to lower ground to grab a coffee.
In the space of time we spend warming our hands on the steaming china mugs, the rain has stopped, the cloud has lifted and if you use your imagination you can convince yourself there is a sun in the sky after all.
“The good thing about Welsh weather is that if you don’t like it, wait ten minutes and it will have changed,” joked Phil.
Riding into the rough stuff
Refreshed, we head back out on the bikes, this time heading away from the coast and we’re picking up altitude quickly on a beautiful tarmac road. I’m busy admiring the scenery when I see the brake lights of the KTM 790R ahead illuminate. Turning back on ourselves, we leave the tarmac behind and head down a rocky twin track.
Unlike the gravel track we were on earlier, this is much rougher and within 100 metres the ruts appear. Things start off pretty straightforward, but it’s not long before the ruts are not only getting deeper, but they are also becoming water filled, which means you no longer know what lies beneath. I’m suddenly glad I’m riding a middleweight adventure bike instead of a monster GS Adventure or KTM 1290. It’s not that you wouldn’t be able to ride either of those bikes down here, it’s just that being on the sub-200kg machine makes it a whole lot more enjoyable by removing huge chunks of trepidation.
My new-found confidence gets tested just a few miles later as ahead of me lies an expanse of water. It’s deep enough to ensure the entire track we’re following is underwater. It’s a new challenge; before it was all about negotiating a water-filled rut, now it’s a case of trying to ride through an underwater rut that you can’t even see.
My Sealskinz socks, which have been doing an impressive job of keeping my feet dry so far, have reached their limit. Not because they’ve started leaking, but because the bow wave generated by the bike has sent the chilly water over the top of my boots and down to my feet. There’s no time to give it a second thought though because I need maximum concentration and focus to stay on line. With my eyes fixated on the end of the water and the sanctuary of dry land, I try to stay relaxed, letting the tyres, suspension and chassis do what their designers intended and soak up the unpredictable and unseen terrain. When I make it out to the other side I can feel my heart racing. Only some of that is down to the exertion itself as it dawns on me that I’ve been holding my breath. It’s not long until we’re faced with another deep water challenge and thankfully we both make it through without drama. The chink of sun I convinced myself I saw earlier has definitely gone, in fact we’re starting to lose light. A few miles later we’re back on tarmac and heading back to base. I’m feeling elated about the bikes we’ve been riding and what an incredible place the UK is to explore even in the winter months. Life is good but before we reach our destination there is a ferocious roar above my head, looking up I see not one but two RAF Typhoons on a military exercise scything their way through the valley at over 500mph. Breathtaking… and I thought we’d been making good progress!
Now it’s your turn
If you want to ride some of the best, legal trails in Snowdonia you really need a guide. We rode with ridethewild.co.uk, who offer bespoke rides from their Snowdonia base. Whether you want to have a gentle off-road tour on your GS or go and get stuck up a mountain on your enduro bike, these guys know where to go. So if you want great riding without the time-sapping planning needed in finding the right, legal routes, it’s a no brainer. Prices start at £75 per person so your dream ride needn’t break the bank either.
‘It’s a case of trying to ride through a rut that’s hidden under deep water’