Get your bike post-lockdown ready

Oil and filter changes can make for a satisfying DIY task

How to do a basic service to ensure your engine’s refreshed

1

Basic but critical components

When performing a basic service, most bikes will require just a new oil filter, sump plug washer and the correct grade of oil. Always use genuine parts and good quality lubricant; often the cost difference between OE-spec bits and pattern stuff is negligible, yet genuine parts are critical to an engine’s longevity. Don’t risk false economies.

2

Know the process

Refer to your workshop manual for the specific procedure relating to an oil and filter change. Steps are typically straightforward and usually only involve removal of lower fairing panels, if fitted. You will need to gain access to the sump plug which is located at the very bottom of the engine, and the oil filter which is often found behind the downpipes.

3

Get ready to drain

The bike needs to be level fore and aft so that all the oil drains away, so place it on its main stand or use front and rear paddock stands. Place a drain tray under the sump plug and have some paper towel on standby. The oil will flow more easily if the engine is warm; so start it up and let it run up to temperature, before allowing to cool slightly so it’s safe to work on.

4

Time to unplug

Locate the sump plug, in this case the 17mm sump bolt is between where the exhaust downpipes separate. Crack it to release and then undo by a couple of turns with the ratchet, before removing completely by hand. As the plug is on the last thread remove it sideways so as not to disrupt the flow of oil. Make sure the oil is flowing directly into the centre of the drain tray.

5

Let it all drain free

Depending on what bike you’re working on, there can be up to four litres of oil to drain off, almost all of which is in the sump and should drain out very quickly. When the main body of oil has drained away there will be a steady trickle of residual oil – allow all of this to drain out.

6

Time to face the filter

Move the drain tray ready to catch any oil from the filter, but also try to keep it in a place where it can still collect the last drips from the sump drain. Using a filter wrench, undo the filter; note that they can be quite tight. Once it has been undone a turn or two, you can remove it by hand.

7

Plug it up to prevent leaks

Remove the washer from the sump plug, sometimes they will need prising off with a screwdriver. The washer acts as a gasket so collapses when tightened to create a seal, which is also why you should never reuse an old washer. Wipe the sump and clean away any traces of oil. Fit a new washer to the sump plug and install, tighten and torque to the correct setting.

8

Prepare the new filter

With the oil filter removed, clean the exposed mating surface with paper towel, wiping away all traces of oil contamination. Take special care of the flat surface where the filter O-ring seats. Lightly oil or grease the O-ring on the new filter and install. Tighten up by hand, and then add another half to three-quarters of a turn with a wrench, or to the manual specification.

9

Refill with the correct grade of oil

Check in the manual for the exact volume of oil needed for an oil and filter change, you may find that there are different amounts specified depending on whether the engine has been disassembled and rebuilt, or just had an oil and filter change. Make sure that the oil is of the correct type as specified in the handbook and pour in through the filler cap using a funnel.

10

Get it bang on the level

When you have poured in the correct amount of oil replace the filler cap and run the engine for a few minutes. Wait a short while and take the bike off stand so that both wheels are on the ground, as this will give a more accurate reading. Check oil level through the sight glass or dipstick. Top up as necessary then make a visual check for any leaks around sump and filter.