05 Fit For Purpose

Whatever your style of shirt, the most important factor is fit. Sleeves should stop at the wrist a few centimetres longer than the arm of your jacket. The body of the shirt should be long enough so that if you were to touch your toes, it would not untuck. Meanwhile, a buttoned-up collar should be loose enough for you to be able to slip two fingers between it and your neck, but no looser.

Most important is the way in which you accommodate what lies beneath. Whether that’s a gym-honed physique or one in need of attention, neither should make itself known. “Never go too tight,” says Gomilsek- Cole. “My bugbear with shirt fit is ‘BUP’, or Buttons Under Pressure. That’s when a shirt is too small to fit muscle or flab. Lose your vanity: go up a size to get a better fit.”