White Collar Worker

The Cutaway The most elegant but also the most extreme of collars, the ’ 30s-era cutaway ( AKA Italian) collar necessitates the wearing of a tie, but is also said to flatter a narrow face shape. “This is the style that subtly frames the face and draws attention to what you have tied around your neck,” says Field.

Best for: Wearing with a tie with a sizeable knot. Caution: this look can be extremely elegant (Edward VIII) or utterly risible (footballers).

The Spread The cutaway’s less-ambitious cousin, the spread collar leaves enough room at the neck to work with the largest variety of knot styles. It also neatly frames most face shapes. “If versatility is what you’re really after, then the spread collar is the one to go for,” suggests Field. Best for: Wearing with a tailored suit, less-formal separates or, at a push, an unstructured blazer. The Point Originating from military dress, this classic collar is the standard style of most shirtmakers, precisely because it occupies the middle ground. Choose carefully: “One test of collar quality is the number of pieces it’s made from,” says Field. “Strong points on a collar will ensure there’s no curling.”

Best for: Wearing with almost anything you like, done up or undone – just never with a tie that’s sluggishly half undone.

Button-down This most casual of styles was born out of necessity. Polo players needed to prevent collars flapping in their faces and thus a new style arrived. “The button-down is the definitive style of Ivy Leaguers,” says Field, though in the US, it was seen as the more formal business option for some time. This is quite incorrect.

Best for: Wearing undone over a white T-shirt; with chinos or jeans and a jacket for alfresco drinks; not if you happen to play polo.