The 9am Meeting
The golden sartorial rule in business is to dress for the industry you’re operating in. So, while the traditional white-collar professions – accountancy, law, finance – will tend to reward a man with a more buttoned-up approach to tailoring, the creative industries are less conservative. This much is elementary. But it’s important not to misconstrue it as a question of smart versus louche – to pull off either look well requires effort. “Ask yourself, ‘ Does this company have flair?’” says Steven Hitchcock, Mayfair tailor to numerous Google executives. “If it does, show some of your own.” Flair is not flamboyance, by the way. It’s elan. A well-cut, well-fitted, navy blue suit worn with style and enthusiasm will take most men a long way, whether they’re selling bonds or advertising. Plus, navy is a colour that flatters most builds and complexions, whereas charcoal has a habit of washing some faces out.
Just avoid the temptation to overdress. “Interviews are all about fitting in,” says Hitchcock, “and being ‘aggressively smart’ can be distracting, if not slightly off-putting. So lose the statement tie and pin. Mind your appearance, certainly, but woe betide if you try to outdress your future boss.”
It can be tempting to mess with the rules of black tie. It feels boring, and everyone’s dressed the same. Resist that urge. This is not a time for self-expression, but rather one to celebrate simplicity, structure and elegance.
“While something like a velvet jacket can be nice at Christmas, I would advise going as classic as possible,” says Arden. That means a one-button black or midnight blue dinner suit with a shawl or peak lapel. “Refinement is the order of the evening, so avoid flaps on the pockets, which disrupt clean lines.”
Everest goes further. “Jetted pockets and a silk grosgrain lapel are fine, but no vents or turn-ups. Subtle details are a good thing when it comes to eveningwear,” he says. “A horseshoe waistcoat can be a nice touch.”
Meanwhile, Hitchcock offers a more frugal reason for keeping it simple. Unless you’re in the business of serving gin and tonics, black tie is rarely dug out more than a few times a year. You want a suit that will give you good service for years to come.