“The best football kits used to be made like prison clothes – thick and strong and baggy”
starkly in BFG: (“Everybody says I’m fucking sad. Of course I’m fucking sad, I miss my fucking dad.”)
His stepfather is at least partially responsible for his eclectic taste in music, unveiled on a 6Music show earlier this year, where he played everything from Nina Simone and James Brown to Thundercat and Kano. “My parents were big into everything – soul, funk, jazz, folk – just stuff that was saying something,” he says. “Stuff that was funny or genuine or honest. Not just saying it, but saying it for a reason.”
Carner’s stepfather even makes a cameo on the album, and his short sweet acoustic ballad gives it its name. “My stepdad literally made an album that no one knew about,” he explains. “After he passed away, my mum found it and passed it on to me. I started off trying to sample it, but then I just put it on. I wanted to release some of his stuff as he never had a chance to do it.”
His stepfather is with him on stage, too, as Carner performs in an Eric Cantona shirt he used to own – a touching gesture from a confirmed Liverpool fan. “My dad used to wear it all the time on holiday. It was very important to him. I hated it because I hate United, but I did like Cantona because my dad loved him. When he died, I wanted to show how much I cared for him, so wearing his shirt was the ultimate sacrifice for me. Out of everything we shared, that’s the one thing he would have really understood.”
Off-stage, too, he wears a lot of football shirts, but ones more to his own vintage tastes. “Whatever city I go to, I try to get the local strip – Roma, Juve, AC Milan. The best ones used to be Nike kits. They made them like prison clothes – thick and strong and baggy. Now every kind of football top is super tight, which is not what I’m down for because I’ve got no muscles. I know they’re meant to improve performance, but Michael Owen won the Ballon d’or playing in a shirt that was too big for him. I need a shirt I can wear off the pitch!”
Of his collection, his favourite is a quasi-psychedelic Mexico shirt (which sounds as if it could be from 1996), and the runt of the litter is a moody Croatian. “It even has Ronaldo’s name on the back, like they were trying to will him into being one of their players!”
When pressed to describe his own style, Carner opts for a self-deprecating “old man/janitor/football hooligan”, confessing to a love of hard-wearing warm fabrics inherited from his Scottish grandfather. He doesn’t share the love affair many rappers have with iconic menswear labels, although he singles out workwear titans Carhartt for praise because “their stuff just won’t rip”. What he does love, though, is trainers. “I’ve got a disgusting number of trainers. I’ve no space for them any more.” His taste in them is catholic, but he singles out his favourites: “Adidas for sport, and old-school Vans, because you can wear them with anything.”
Carner is seemingly light on plans for world domination and brand extensions. His goals for his music are that “it goes where I go”, although he would like to collaborate with US producer Madlib. And then there’s the dream of turning the cookery school into a restaurant. What theme would it have? “I don’t know… actually, I do, but if you put it into the article someone will pop up and steal it!”
Loyle Carner might wear his heart on his sleeve, but for the moment he’s keeping the rest of his cards close to his chest. Yesterday’s gone, but tomorrow is almost embarrassingly full of promise.
Who’d have thought AW17 would see cricket jumpers pushed as a style staple, particularly by the likes of streetwear advocate David Beckham? Well, not us. But sometimes menswear likes to bowl a googly and this season it’s revamped heritage brand Kent & Curwen – which is part-owned by Beckham – that’s dominating the crease. Yes, the likes of Ralph Lauren have been quietly producing cricket sweaters for years. And, yes, the V-neck trend is alive and kicking. But even so, there’s something novel about this heavy-gauge, oversized knit – inspired by the label’s extensive sportswear archive, yet contemporary in feel. Fashion, as everyone knows, is often short-lived. You sense this brand can look forward to a good innings.
Stone Island has been a cult streetwear favourite for the past 20 years, but its overriding strength remains in its ability to innovate. By attempting to do what others might consider too costly or time consuming, the brand’s maverick CEO Carlo Rivetti has nurtured a creative culture that gives rise to garments that are as unique as they are functional. For instance, the nylon used in this jacket’s construction is dipped in a special type of resin before it’s woven, which makes it surprisingly wind resistant. By extension, you’ll feel immeasurably warmer without the usual need for added bulk. Meanwhile, the uneven application of the spectacular orange dye to this resin coating gives this coat an eye-catching marbled effect. And that’s Stone Island to a tee: high concept, high style.
Penfield’s Greylock parka is constructed from a light, breathable nylon that is slim enough to be slipped on over the heaviest of jumpers should the weather change – all without turning you into the Michelin Man. The two layers of fabric from which the jacket is made are separated by a laminated membrane. Not only does this prevent water getting through, but crucially it doesn’t compromise on comfort internally. Normally, holes are left by the needle where pockets or panels are sewn together, meaning water can penetrate (and, yes, even a few drops will be felt). But in order to prevent that, the seams are taped over with a durable nylon that has a thin rubberised backing. The effect is both practical and stylish, helping to disguise the jacket’s construction. We’re calling it seamless elegance.