A SNOB’S GUIDE TO KALE
To say that kale is good for you is akin to declaring the Pope’s religious conviction. But making this bitter green giant more toothsome has proved no mean feat. Until now
Reclaim the ubiquitous superfood from the clean eaters with our Michelin-starred tips
GREEN CREDENTIALS
Along with its brassica cousins cabbage and broccoli, kale has something of an image problem. Despite achieving superfood status with regular gigs at high- street juice bars, it’s not so much celebrated as tolerated. But a little culinary know-how goes a long way: “Kale lends itself to all manner of dishes, from salads to winter braises,” says restaurateur Mark Hix. Time to turn over a new leaf.
i) CURLY KALE
The sharp-tasting, full-fronded poster boy of the kale crew is a top source of potassium, vital for muscle function to get more from your lifting sessions. Pair with lean, white meat and ensure your efforts reap big rewards.
ii) REDBOR KALE
Also known by the more chromatically apt moniker ‘purple kale’, antioxidant-rich redbor leaves contain more energising iron per calorie than beef – an ironic twist for committed carnivores.
iii) CAVOLO NERO
Originally grown in Tuscany, cavolo nero (which translates as ‘black kale’) is richer and nuttier than its British cousin. Stuffed with isothiocyanates, it’s also shown to have a potent anti-carcinogenic effect.
iv) RED RUSSIAN
This sweeter, more tender member of the kale fam packs 134% of your vit C RDA per bowl. Your body’s immune system is weaker during intense training, so it’ll look out for you when your defences are down.
YOUR FRESH APPROACH
With proper prep, kale needn’t leave a bitter taste in the mouth. You can start by removing the hard stems. The majority of kale’s nutrients are contained in its antioxidant-rich leaves. Hix advises using a razor-sharp paring knife, like this hand-crafted British blade (£ 140 blenheimforge.co.uk). Studies have shown that dull knives can cause the leakage of nutrients such as calcium and potassium.
Next, rinse and dry your leaves in a salad spinner, such as this stainless steel option from Oxo (£ 75 amazon.co.uk). Now treat them to a light massage, which will relax the kale’s tough cellulose structure, reducing some of that trademark bitterness.
Finally, bring out the heavy-duty cookware. “I like to keep things simple, so these recipes don’t require anything more than a heavy-bottom saucepan,” says Hix. “This is the best thing to use when slow cooking, as it retains more heat and helps to speed up the process.” For best results, take a leaf out of Hix’s book and opt for a cast iron classic from Le Creuset (£ 111 ecookshop.co.uk). Now, fire up the hob.
HANDLE THE HEAT
For such a nutritional juggernaut, kale is delicate. It may contain considerably more vit C than spinach, but bring it to the boil and you’ll lose more than a third of this immunity-boosting benefit. A steam or gentle stir fry will lock in the hyper-heralded nutrients. And whatever you do, says Hix, don’t add bicarb of soda to the water. Your granny may have sworn by its ability to keep the colour in your greens, but it’ll crucify your cruciferous veg’s healthy benefits. Protect, then serve with recipes from Hix Soho.
CURLY KALE WITH BUTTERFLY PRAWNS
SERVES 4
• A head of curly kale, washed, trimmed and cut into 2- 3cm pieces • Olive oil for frying • Flaky sea salt, to taste • Whole tiger prawns, 12 • Dried chilli flakes, 1tsp • Butter, 2tbsp METHOD Heat 8cm of oil to 180°C in a thick pan. Deep-fry the kale in handfuls until crisp, then pop on kitchen paper and scatter with salt. De-head the prawns, slice lengthways and baste with butter and chilli; cook on a griddle pan. To finish your dish, deep-fry the prawn shells, then dry and blend to a coarse powder with the chilli and salt. Sprinkle over the top for an electrolyte-replenishing feast.
ii) BRAISED PORK WITH PURPLE KALE
SERVES 4 • Pork cheeks, 500g,
cut into chunks • Salt and black pepper • Flour, 50g plus dusting • Vegetable oil, 1tbsp • Butter, 60g • Onions, 2, finely sliced • Dry cider, 500ml • Chicken stock, 700ml • Purple kale, 250- 300g,
stalks removed METHOD Season and lightly flour the pork. Fry the cheeks in oil on high heat until brown. Melt the butter in a heavy-based pan and cook the onion for two minutes until soft; add the flour, reduce the heat, then gradually add the antioxidantrich cider and stock. Bring to the boil, add the pork, season and simmer for 60-90 minutes. Reduce the sauce, then steam the kale until tender. Serve.
CAVOLO NERO WITH CHESTNUTS
SERVES 4 • Frozen chestnuts, 250g, peeled and halved • Cavolo nero, 400g • Cold-pressed
rapeseed oil, 1tbsp • Berkswell cheese, 80g (or a hard cheese like Parmesan) Sea salt and fresh black pepper, to taste METHOD Gently fry the chestnuts for three minutes or until golden. Bring a large pan of salted water to the boil. Add the kale for 40-50 seconds, transfer to a bowl using a slotted spoon, then immediately drizzle with rapeseed oil and season to taste. Serve with the chestnuts for an added hit of vitamin C, helping you absorb more iron from the kale. Add the finely grated cheese and dig in.
GRILLED PLAICE WITH RUSSIAN KALE
SERVES 4 • A large plaice, cut on
the bone into 4 • Olive oil for grilling • Salt and white pepper • Anya new potatoes,
700g, washed • Red Russian kale,
150-200g, trimmed • Butter, 60g • Chopped chervil, 1tbsp • A lemon, in 4 wedges METHOD Brush the selenium-rich fish with oil and season, then pop it under a hot grill for about five minutes each side. Test it with a small knife, near the bone. Boil the potatoes until soft, then cook the kale in boiling salted water for two minutes. Melt the butter in a pan, add the kale and blood pressure-curbing chervil and serve with the fish, spuds, lemon and – oh, go on then – extra butter.