Years ago, when I was travelling around the island of Sumatra, I got around on ferries. I recall an overnight journey to Nīas – a surfing mecca – when the only berth I could find was below deck where everyone was smoking clove cigarettes. Returning to the area a good while later, that bitter, medicinal scent struck me straight away. You catch little puffs of it in the street – it’s a very pervasive smell. Woody, smoky scents always remind me of Bali, whether it’s the coconut husks that the locals burn to grill fish or the rich aroma of sandalwood found burning in every shrine and temple. The majority of Balinese are extremely pious Hindus, and the burning of sandalwood is central to their faith. Its musty smell has a relaxing effect – it almost feels like a sedative, something to send you into a religious trance. It’s heavy and envelopes you, and you instantly know you’re taking in something from the Orient.