LET’S CLEAR UP A FEW THINGS

Skin problems don’t just disappear when you hit your twenties, or even your forties. You won’t always grow out of acne, so decode its causes to prevent future breakouts

Like braces and bowl cuts, you may have thought that pimples and blackheads were reserved for your teenage years. But adult acne is exceedingly common, says dermatologist Michelle Henry. “There are patients who never had it as teens but have it as adults, and there are patients who have had it their entire lives,” she says. Regardless of when it happens, there’s usually a why. Use our list to identify the problem, then act on the mode of prevention.

01 CONSTANT STRESS

Anxiety releases the fight-or-flight hormone cortisol. That activates your sebaceous glands, which flood your pores with breakout-causing oil. “There is also an increased release of inflammatory molecules and hormones that we think can have a direct effect on the skin,” says dermatologist Evan Rieder. Low-level, consistent stress keeps cortisol levels high and can lead to chronic acne, too.

PREVENT IT

Reducing stress is easier said than done. If that’s just not possible, dermatologist Corey Hartman suggests talking to an expert about retinoids, which can decrease inflammation. Adapalene is an over-thecounter option, but consult a doctor about using it first.

02 YOUR DIET

Adults who said they frequently consumed foods with a high glycaemic index, such as milk and sugar, reported having more acne, according to a 2020 study published in JAMA Dermatology. “Now we understand that things like chocolate and empty

carbohydrates can also make your skin more oily,” says Henry.

PREVENT IT Monitor your intake. You don’t have to start a food journal – just take note of when you eat an extra portion of pudding or mix your protein shake with milk, not water. Then scan your face for a day or two afterwards for any blemishes. If you notice more acne, cut back on the food or drink that likely caused it.

03 GROOMING PRODUCTS

“Most oils cause clogged pores and breakouts,” says Hartman. If your hair care or beard products contain oil, it can settle directly into your pores. Oil-based hair products can accumulate on your hairline or temples and lead to pimples.

PREVENT IT Though there are some types of oil that have been shown not to clog pores, Hartman recommends erring on the side of caution. “You can get moisture and hydration from other things – just avoid oil altogether,” he says. Switch hair and beard products to those that specifically state “oil-free” or “water-based” on the label, like Baxter of California Hard Water Pomade (£18 mrporter.com).

04 FRICTION

When something rubs against your skin, the heat and friction can force dirt and oil into your pores and trigger inflammation. Maybe you’ve noticed this lately after wearing your obligatory COVID-19 face mask.

PREVENT IT “Create a barrier,” says Henry, who recommends a heavy but gentle moisturiser that contains hyaluronic acid, such as Cetaphil Daily Hydrating Moisturiser (£13 boots.com). This works to keep moisture in the skin while also protecting it from the abrasive rubbing.

05 HORMONES

Androgens such as testosterone can also increase the production of sebum. This wax-like gloop clogs pores and sometimes leads to cysts. Men can experience testosterone-related breakouts, says Hartman, though it’s more often linked to the intake of hormones from supplements or food.

PREVENT IT Doctors treat acne in women with testosterone blockers, but you don’t want to mess with your T levels. Instead, buy organic animal products with no added hormones.