Make the Grade

Give yourself an expert shave at home with these tips from Denis Robinson, barber at Ruffians, Liberty Soho

TAKING THE PLUNGE

Step 01 Invest in a good pair of clippers (around £50). Position a second mirror, so you can see all of your head. Wash your hair and allow it to dry naturally, falling the way it normally does.

Step 02 Cut against the grain – so, if your hair falls forward, cut backward. If this is your first time, start on a longer length.

Step 03 If your hair is very thin on top, cut this one clipper level shorter than the back and sides to drill down wispy hairs that are harder for the clippers to grab. Short hair looks better when it’s sharper around the edges, so if you’re using a No 3, use a No 2 around the hairline.

Step 04 Once you know this is the look for you, do it regularly. This will keep it sharp – and will also help you emotionally by confirming that this is a style choice, not merely a necessity.

PERFECTING THE WET SHAVE

Step 01 Novice shavers should start by clipping the hair down into stubble. Aim for around 3-5mm in length. Wash your hair/head and use a clean blade. Rinse well.

Step 02 Lather up shaving cream, foam or soap and massage into the skin. Shave with the grain; most hair grows forward on top towards the forehead, so shave from the crown, sweeping forward, then down to the ears and nape.

Step 03 Shave across the grain from side to side to catch bits that you’ve missed. Never go against the grain, as this can cause painful ingrowing hairs. Use your non-razor hand to stretch the skin, creating a smoother plane.

Step 04 Finally, with a thorough rinse, remove all residue, preferably with cold water to shock the skin into retracting and closing the pores, and then moisturise.