Whole Grilled Turbot, Brat

The countless words and photos dedicated to Tomos Parry’s Basque-style flatfish don’t change the core fact: it is delicious. Grilled over charcoal and dressed in lemon and oil, it’s a hymn to the school of taking a great ingredient and doing as little as possible to it. (And at 75% pure protein, too.) Whether you’re at the original site in Shoreditch or in Climpson’s Arch in Hackney, the lesson is: you may eat cheaper fish, but you won’t eat better.