NEW TIME TONES

The men’s luxury watch industry isn’t renowned for its flamboyant approach to colour, though the belt is loosening. This year, it’s cool to be on the spectrum WRIST ASSESSMENT COLOURFUL WATCHES

Colour is often seen as a frivolity, a stylistic caprice: pink is the new black, and so on. But the cultural and sociological importance of colour cannot be underestimated. We all imbue colours with meaning and context. They segregate societies by their association with football teams and political parties.

The subconscious reactions that we have to different colours guide our expectations of products and experiences, from food and drink to road signs. Some of this feels immutable – the association of green and blue with nature, for example – but plenty has evolved over time. It’s little known, for example, that a century ago boys wore pink and blue was for girls – which might come as a shock to anyone who has shopped in Baby Gap.

Meanwhile, in the world of commerce, colour has become a powerful branding tool. Many companies have attempted to associate themselves with certain shades, either to reinforce existing perceptions, such as the red of a Ferrari, or simply to stand out, such as a bright yellow Selfridges bag.

In the world of luxury watches, however, for the past 30 years at least, most have played it pretty safe. Like men’s tailoring, a staple palette that stays within archetypal masculine bounds has tended to suffice.

Occasionally, there’s an experiment with something brighter, but this is for the precise reason that it defies expectation. If a bit of orange or red creeps in, it’s because the watch wants to signal that its wearer might at any moment do something dangerous or impetuous. Meanwhile, the past decade has yielded waves of blues and greens, each met with joyous pronouncements about the brave creative freedom they represent. But in all honesty, picking a blue watch over a black or silver one is about as daring as opting for a glass of rosé.

Very recently, though, it feels like a switch has flipped. Legacy brands such as Rolex, Omega, Tag Heuer and Breitling have joined their more arty contemporaries and started to explore the entire paintbox. Purples and pinks; yellows and browns; teal, turquoise and taupe – it’s all on the menu. Pastel hues have been sighted at the most macho of manufacturers and dayglo designs of tropical intensity at previously fogyish horologists. And you know what? It makes a welcome change. Here’s our pick of six watches that embrace new and colourful times. Chris Hall is Mr Porter’s senior watch editor

Vivid Memories Colours can affect your recall ability. Studies have shown that blues and reds can boost cognitive

function

01 Bell & Ross BR V2-92, Orange, £2,900

Yes, this is a classic case of ‘action orange’. But there’s authenticity here. Bell & Ross has achieved a sort of pop-art simplicity with its fully tangerine dial and oversized numerals that glow bright yellowgreen for a real sensory overload.

02 Zenith Defy 21 Chroma, £12,200

Why have one wild colour when you can have… all of them? Zenith’s Defy 21 Chroma is light years away from anything the brand was making a few years ago. It comes in a 44mm white ceramic case and is limited to just 200 pieces.

03 Grand Seiko SBGW289, £4,630

Easily the most delicate design on our list, this limited edition Grand Seiko celebrates 55 years of the original GS, and does so with a finely textured dial intended to evoke cherry blossom and late winter snow.

04 Longines Legend Diver, £1,960

Burgundy isn’t such a brave colour for some things – a classic Jag perhaps, or the kind of hardback books you find in fusty libraries.

But on a dive watch, it’s pretty out-there, and it brings an entirely new character to the Legend Diver.

05 Oris ProPilot X Calibre 400, £3,200

Oris launched the ProPilot X in 2018 as a 44mm skeletonised design, billing it as a modern pilot’s watch. The reception was polite but muted. Now revamped as a 39mm model with this flamingo pink dial, it’s one of the key releases of 2022.

06 Hublot Big Bang Integral, Blue Ceramic, £19,900 Hublot describes it as ‘an azure blue from the South Seas’; we’re surprised it’s not modelled by

Pep Guardiola. The use of colour extends to the entire ceramic case and bracelet – a feat of chemical, as well as chromatic, prowess.