PRUSSIAN BARN
Practical Wargames Terrain:
In this instalment I’m returning to the smaller, more ‘everyday’ models for the tabletop with a tutorial showing how I use everyday materials to scratch-build simple and practical wargame terrain on a budget. The Prussian Barn is based on a handmade clay ornament that I first saw and photographed at a Christmas Market in Birmingham city centre some years ago (a sort of ‘Christmas Bonus!’ Ed.). I think the item was an oil or scent burner.
Rather than my recent Roman Mile Castle or the Elder Scrolls Bleak Falls pieces I have finished over recent months, I have tried to stick to my five simple rules or guidelines: the model had to fit into an imaginary 6 inch x 6 inch x 6 inch box and must be robust, painted to a ‘good’ gaming standard (I think) and to be designed for generic in usage. Oh, and it had to be built from cheap, readily available materials – the sort of things that could be easily found in any typical household.
As with a lot of my model inspiration the image was stored on my computer until I was looking for another model to build for this series of articles. I sketched up a detailed plan and set to work building the corrugated cardboard core. I used egg box card and DAS modelling clay to model the basic timberframed structure while the detailing was done with more egg box card, some scrap balsawood and trimmed cocktail sticks to model the wooden pegs that hold the timber frame together. Later I used some second-hand advertising card to model the roof tiles.
Painting followed the original clay barn colour scheme, in fact the only deviation from the Christmas market ornament was how I modelled and painted the rear (I only had the one image of the barn and everything around the rear was made up). I really enjoyed making and painting this model, not just because it is such an attractive building but because I was able to reproduce the original clay sculpt as close as possible for use as a piece of unique wargame terrain.
1. CONCEPTION
The model is closely based on a handmade clay decoration photographed at a German Christmas market in 2011. As with a lot of my model making inspiration the image was stored on my computer until I came across it again and thought it would be a fantastic addition to this series of ‘how-to’ articles. Of course, I now wish I had taken more photographs (see the one here at the bottom) as there were other similar decorations for sale and I’m sure there would have been lots more inspiration for me to model.
2. CORE VALUES
I then set to work building the corrugated cardboard core. Scrap corrugated cardboard profiles were first cut out and then glued together with my hot glue gun. I have written many times about how easy these structures are to make. Similar models could just as simply be built from foamboard or card and the hot glue gun although a great resource for scratch-builders could easily be replaced with PVA glue or superglue.
3. TEAR IT UP
The cardboard core was covered in strips of torn newspaper applied over PVA glue. This paper mache covering produces very strong boxes onto which you are then able to add further detailing. The newspaper covered core was later painted with a PVA glue and ready-mixed filler mix which adds further to the strength and acts like model making Gesso onto on which you can built more texture or detail. I am also aware that if you add white acrylic paint to the mix you can get a creamier and smoother consistency.
4. EGG BOX & DAS
I used egg box card and DAS modelling clay to model the basic timber-framed structure and in-filled daub areas while the detailing was done with yet more egg box card. It may not be too apparent but I have cut into the corrugated cardboard to model the small openings (I don’t think they are windows) in the walls. These unusual features were very obvious on the clay decoration and I wanted to include them on my model. They could be windows or just as likely openings for doves or pigeons to enter.
5. MORE EGG BOX & BALSA
Most of the surface texturing or detailing was done with cut up egg box card, but I have also used scrap balsawood to model the main door and some cut down cocktail sticks inserted into predrilled holes to mimic the small wooden pegs that would have been used to hold the timber frame together. The rear was imagined or made up as I did not have any photographs of the back of the Christmas market decoration. Later, I used thin card as a base for the tiled roof which was glued in place with PVA glue.
6. TILE PRODUCTION
The roof was tiled with individual card tiles that were cut from an old card sign. The card was 2mm thick, marked in an 8mm x 10mm grid and then cut out with a snap-off bladed knife. My experience is that when cutting tiles like this, you should cut 90% to 95% of the way through. It makes it easier to cut out and you can always trim the tiles just before attaching them to the roof with PVA glue. The tiles have been sealed with more PVA glue and had some fine sand sprinkled on top to give additional texture.
7. UNDERCOAT
The whole model has been painted in a dark brown/deep red base colour and then ‘splattered’ with various coloured paints to obtain the speckled effect shown. I am still perfecting the technique, but it does produce some very impressive paint effects. Impressive, but messy! Wet paint is loaded onto a large brush; I then flick the bristles with a cocktail stick to speckle the surface. Try to use a couple of different colours to get a more interesting or natural effect.
8. WATTLE & DAUB
The daub areas were painted over a craft paint: a Linen colour with Linen/white highlights and a final highlight of pure white but allowing the Linen colour to show through at the edges. I don’t usually recommend using either pure black or pure white when building wargame terrain or structures but in this case the pure white just works. I find painting the white daub areas after the timber frame works better for me, however I am well aware it is not the usual sequence and can seem a little strange.
9. JOB & FINISH
The tiled roof was also painted with the speckling technique. I masked off the rest of the building and gave the roof a basecoat of blue-grey and green-grey, before starting the speckling. Once again I would recommend a couple of different colours to give a more interesting effect. Detail painting (there wasn’t that much) was touched-in with a fine brush. I then varnished the whole model with Galleria Matt Varnish. As you’ll see on the finished model at the start of this piece, the final modelling touch was to add some clump foliage to the side (as featured on the original model).