kaleidoscope bejewel “In a of the colourful ceramics that everything finest on the island, from humble tables to the of cathedrals”
The next morning brought more clouds so we decided to warm ourselves up in the Terme di Segesta natural hot springs. The Caldo River comes into contact with hot magma as it seeps through the rocks and maintains a temperature of 51˚C.
These have been known about since around 700BC, when the Greeks who lived there believed that the god, Krimisos, had heated them to revive the unconscious nymph, Egesta. If it could rouse an unconscious nymph, we were sure it would make us feel a little better as well.
Visitors can choose between the pool and spa development there or the free outdoor springs nearby. The minerals in the waters in both are believed to be of huge benefit to those suffering from rheumatism and other ailments. We opted to swim in the luxurious pool development and to relax on loungers in spectacular scenery as the sun finally decided to make an appearance. It was beginning to feel a bit more like Sicily!
Suitably refreshed and in full holiday mode, it was time to head to the coast for lunch. The most popular coastal town in this area is Castellammare del Golfo – a glorious spectacle of fishing boats and stylish bars. The upper part of the town is reached by stone steps and gives amazing views over the bay and peninsula.
We chose a restaurant on the sunny seafront with views of the sea through palm trees and fervid anti-Mafia slogans emblazoned on benches. The catches of the day were fresh local oysters and tuna, which had been landed overnight and seared on the griddle a few hours later. Buonissimo!
We returned to the Terme di Segesta to stay overnight in its tranquil parking area where wild camping is happily tolerated.
The next morning we decided to brave the free outdoor thermal springs bursting through the rocks into little pools – nature’s own warm bathing facilities – a truly magical experience!
The surrounding area is largely undeveloped, despite being home to both ³
this natural wonder and one of the most amazing archaeological sites in the world – the Doric Temple of Segesta. It meant that we were able to enjoy walking, swimming, watching the wildlife, and exploring abandoned farm buildings uninterrupted by others for most of the day.
The area is full of tall reeds, pretty tamarisk trees, Italian sparrows, black redstarts and barn swallows. The rock formations around the pools are particularly good for housing nests so it makes an easy job for birdwatchers.
By the afternoon, we were in need of a pick-me-up and set off along the coast to Scopello in the Zingaro Natural Park. The drive there is truly unforgettable, with photo opportunities along the route of the bay of Castellammare in the distance, as well as incredible rock formations striding boldly into the sea.
The town is a little touristy, with shops and bars in a small courtyard complex, but it had two main attractions for us: a motorhome site and a café serving the best affogato in the region. There’s nothing quite like a scoop of gelato melting in a shot of strong Sicilian espresso to keep you going in the heat. Perfetto!
We were in need of supplies and found our way to the unassuming little town of Balestrate further along the coast. Amongst the many bars and pasticcerie was an excellent fish shop where we bought ourselves a small octopus for our tea, and a rusty white van where we stocked up on fresh garlic. The wine shop opposite allowed us to fill up our empty water bottles with a range of local vino for either cooking or drinking, as the quality dictated.
Balestrate has its own seafront and motorhome parking area by the beach but, before we settled in for the evening, we wanted to find out if there was anything of interest nearby. A little local knowledge from a shopkeeper led us along rough country roads to the Sanctuary of Madonna del Ponte near Partinico.
The sanctuary has been a site of pilgrimage for many years, with worshippers believing it to be a source of indulgences and healing. It’s a sweet little chapel with some interesting paintings inside, as well as a display of crutches left by those believing they had been healed.
However, its crowning glory is outside.
There stands a huge stone staircase with every step individually decorated in a kaleidoscope of the colourful ceramics that bejewel everything on the island, from humble tables to the finest of cathedrals. It was certainly worth the detour.
In the morning it was time to think about heading back to the port and then we took the brave decision to drive into the city to visit the UNESCO World Heritage Site of Palermo Cathedral.
Palermo is both a fabulous and crazy city and, although we were spared the drama of driving through the pedestrianised centre, the outskirts are still treacherous, especially in a campervan. Needless to say, I decided not to volunteer to be the designated driver that day!
The cathedral is a blend of different architectural styles that reflect its Norman origins, its transformation into a mosque by Saracens in the ninth century and various additions and alterations between the fourteenth and eighteenth centuries, such as the stylish side cupolas designed by Fuga and the fifteenth century wooden choir stalls. It would take days to admire each carving, sculpture, jewel and treasure properly but we were just content to be there, awestruck, amidst this mosaic of art, craftsmanship and history.
It was our last chance to enjoy the
Sicilian sunshine so we opted to take a tour of the roof of the cathedral, where we could get a really close-up view of the glazed majolica tiles gleaming in the sunshine, the cupolas, the gardens and the intricate detailing in every aspect of this multicultural masterpiece.
The backdrop for all this was the Sicilian countryside, stretching far into the distance.
Despite all the suffering caused by wars, oppression, banditry and the Mafia, Sicily retains a deep-seated beauty, dignity, fighting spirit and bounty. These have assured its survival so far and will ensure it can face anything that the future has in store for it.