HOW TO DO IT: BUILD A CASTLE KEEP
I cut rectangles for the walls, 180mm high. Two were cut at 80mm width and the others at 70mm to allow for the 5mm thickness of the foamboard. I reckoned this would be more stable than card when the DAS clay was added. This gives a row of pin-pricks which you can then follow from the other side to make a neat, clean cut right through. The slits in the top - I call them ‘arrow slits’ - are just Victorian folly, but they were cut in the same way. I drew the window and door openings in pencil and also the crenellations and the ‘arrow slits’. All these details were added when the top of the structure was rebuilt in the Victorian era as they thought it ought to look. I cut a top 70mm square to allow for the thickness of the walls and set it inside the walls at the level where the gutter spouts will be. The four walls were then glued round it using Velo-set quick-setting PVA glue. Cutting the deep apertures in the foamboard required a slightly different technique and a very sharp craft knife. I used scalpels and pierced the foam board almost vertically on the curves so that the point went right through. I used Dave Shakespeare’s method for the stone walls, giving the foamboard a light coat of PVA glue before applying a thin layer of grey DAS modelling clay. I pressed this out to about 2mm thick before spreading it onto the walls.