HOW TO DO IT: BUILD A CAS­TLE KEEP

Model Rail (UK) - - Railways And Castles Masterplan -

I cut rec­tan­gles for the walls, 180mm high. Two were cut at 80mm width and the oth­ers at 70mm to al­low for the 5mm thick­ness of the foam­board. I reck­oned this would be more sta­ble than card when the DAS clay was added. This gives a row of pin-pricks which you can then fol­low from the other side to make a neat, clean cut right through. The slits in the top - I call them ‘ar­row slits’ - are just Vic­to­rian folly, but they were cut in the same way. I drew the win­dow and door open­ings in pen­cil and also the crenel­la­tions and the ‘ar­row slits’. All these de­tails were added when the top of the struc­ture was re­built in the Vic­to­rian era as they thought it ought to look. I cut a top 70mm square to al­low for the thick­ness of the walls and set it in­side the walls at the level where the gut­ter spouts will be. The four walls were then glued round it us­ing Velo-set quick-set­ting PVA glue. Cut­ting the deep aper­tures in the foam­board re­quired a slightly dif­fer­ent tech­nique and a very sharp craft knife. I used scalpels and pierced the foam board al­most ver­ti­cally on the curves so that the point went right through. I used Dave Shake­speare’s method for the stone walls, giv­ing the foam­board a light coat of PVA glue be­fore ap­ply­ing a thin layer of grey DAS mod­el­ling clay. I pressed this out to about 2mm thick be­fore spread­ing it onto the walls.

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