BED THE TRACK INTO THE BASEBOARD

STEP BY STEP

1

As far as the track plan is concerned, what happens in between the exit point was entirely up to each builder. With a selection of existing buildings, I did a full-size mock-up to see what would work for me and I ended up with a single siding and a headshunt.

3

Rather than messing around with plaster and string to make the section of tramway, I made the flangeway from C&L Finescale Code 75 rail and copper-clad sleepers. A roller gauge (from the likes of Dccconcepts) makes this a doddle.

4

Because the sleepers will be hidden beneath the road surface, they can be widely spaced. As a rule of thumb, one sleeper per inch will be fine. Remember to file the insulating gap through the copper surface before adding the road surface.

2

I like to lay my track onto 5mm foamboard. Mark where the track is going to go, paying close attention to the pointwork and where the point motors will go. Cut a hole through the foam and then drill through the baseboard.

5

Paint the track prior to ballasting (I used Halfords aerosols). Sieve some sand through a tea strainer onto the layout. Use a soft paintbrush and tap the rail tops to tamp it into place.

6

I wanted roads with cobbles/setts. Rather than use embossed plastic, I favour DAS modelling clay, pushed into place with fingers and spread with a butter knife. Applying a little PVA glue can help the clay adhere to a smooth surface.

9

Spread the clay around the running rails of the inlaid track. Make sure the rail tops are slightly proud of the clay surface, as this will make cleaning the track a lot simpler and reduce the chances of models scuffing the clay.

12

Dry-brush on some lighter colours (pale grey and beige works well). A thin wash of diluted matt black interior matt emulsion with a dash of liquid soap can be applied if you require further definition.

7

Now for the clever bit. Dismantle a ballpoint pen. Take the outer sleeve and press it repeatedly into the clay to form tiny cobbles or setts. Unless it’s really warm, the clay takes a fair time to set. I tend to work on one 6in-square area at a time.

10

Use the clay to smooth the transition between ballast and landscape. Spread teaspoon-sized lumps of clay over the edge of the ballast with your fingers and pack it into place with a stiff paintbrush.

8

The level crossing timbers were made from coffee stirrers. The approach roads were made from DAS clay, which will cure faster in warmer weather. Thinner clay tends to cure faster too.

11

The clay has been primed with a blend of Halfords matt black, grey and red primers. The buildings are masked off behind sheets of paper. Beware of inhaling toxic fumes – working outside is advised.