STEP BY STEP

1

You’ll need a box file with a sturdy framework. Most are formed from thin MDF sides with a fibreboard front and back. The sprung clip, lid fastener and rivets need to be removed with pliers.

4

Choice of glue is important. Pritt Stick is perfect for laminating the printed sheets to the card, while a fast-setting aliphatic resin-based liquid glue will considerably speed up assembly.

2

Carefully read through the instructions before printing out the kit, as not all of the pages may be required. There’s no need for fancy, expensive paper – I used standard-quality printer paper.

5

The first job is to cut slots in the side and end of the box file using the printed templates provided in the kit. Use a set square to ensure that the cut lines are perpendicular to the base.

3

Some of the printed sheets must be laminated with card. Three thicknesses are required, so you’ll need artist’s mounting board (heavy grade; 1,400 micron), plus 480gsm (medium) and 160gsm (light). See p58 for a handy pack.

6

Make the vertical cuts with a tenon saw, taking care as the tool nears the bottom as there may be hidden staples. Use a stout knife to make the horizontal cut along the base and tidy the edges with sandpaper.

7

Scalescenes recommends that you lay a bed of cork sheet to the base before you apply the printed ground covering sheets. A thin covering of PVA, left to turn tacky, will secure the paper sheets to the cork.

10

The printed components are best laminated to the required grade of card with a Pritt Stick, which offers an instant bond with less risk of ripples or bubbles. Smooth the paper down with your hands, or weigh it down with books.

8

I opted to lay loose ballast, employing pre-weathered material from the Geoscenics range. To protect the paper from blistering, I fixed the ballast with thin, penetrating cyano glue.

11

Cut out the components as they’re needed in the assembly sequence. Use only a sharp, stout blade and a steel rule, working atop a cutting mat. Replace the blade as soon as it begins to dull.

9

With the track in place, the rails could be painted in a red/brown acrylic by hand, then weathering powders brushed over the sleepers and ballast. Clean the rails with a track rubber and vacuum away any loose debris.

12

When laminating the outer cover sheets onto the card, run a thin bead of glue around the edges of the card and across the middle. The pinpoint applicator is essential to regulate the flow of the glue.

Place the printed cover layer over the card base, carefully aligning the edges before pressing down firmly and smoothing the surface to avoid the formation of bubbles or ripples. After a few moments, flip the component over and run a fine bead of glue along the overlapping paper cover layer, near the edge of the card. Again, just a small amount of adhesive is required. Fold the overlapping section of paper over, running your finger across the edge to ensure a tight, neat fit over the card. Smooth the paper outwards to disperse the adhesive and wipe away any excess with a tissue.