STEP BY STEP

1

To create a scene that appears larger than it is, I made a box and attached it to the baseboard frame. The height was limited by the 5in-deep crate. The fiddleyard wont fit any more, but I didn’t want to compromise on the depth.

4

Lay some masking tape on the platform surface and stipple on a stone-coloured matt emulsion to give the coping stones a different colour. You could always dry-brush on a little stone colour too.

2

I like to prepare platforms early in the build I made this one from two pieces of 5mm foamboard covered with thick card. Edging stones were scribed with a scalpel. Embossed stone-effect plastic card was using for the sides.

5

Don’t be afraid to modify kits to suit your purpose. Ratio’s ‘N’ gauge GWR station building was perfect for this project, but I reduced its depth, making it more like a low-relief building. Note the etched details – fiddly but worth it.

3

When dry, give the platform a coat of Halfords grey primer. Mist on red primer and matt black. Work in a well-ventilated space. The trick with black and red is to mist them on from a distance.

6

Paint the building just like the platform – use aerosols to create a stone effect. Stonework and wood areas were later dry-brushed with stone and cream – I used matt enamel. Paint doors and windows separately and add them after.

7

You can find bargain model buildings at shows. These terraced houses would benefit from a little work. Dornaplas, Hornby Lyddle End, Shire Lane Crafts or Peedie Models sell suitable terraced house kits.

8

The platform is now temporarily in place to check how it fits. To add a little extra height to surrounding landscape, especially where the level crossing will be, mounting board has been layered up to the required height.

9

Paint the track prior to ballasting. In this case, I used the Halfords grey, red and black to colour the track. The platform was then permanently fixed using PVA glue and a few weights. Note the curve, so it will to fit next to the backscene.

10

Sieve some sand through a tea strainer onto the layout. Sand is easier than granite chippings because its grains roll into place around the track more easily. Use a soft paintbrush and tap the rail tops to tamp it into place.

11

Dilute PVA glue to the consistency of full fat milk. A little surgical spirit also helps the PVA to sink in and accelerates the drying process. Use a syringe to dribble it on to the track. Add a little washing-up liquid to the mix to help it flow.

12

To make the timber planks on the level crossing, I sliced some coffee stirrers using a sharp craft knife. Glue with PVA. Ensure that the rail tops are just proud of the surrounding road, to make cleaning the track easier.