How to blank off window apertures
I’m trying to model a HST barrier vehicle and, instead of buying the Hurst Models brass kit to convert a Lima carriage, is there a way of filling the windows and smoothing them over? Lee Martin, by e-mail
George says: Model fillers differ in terms of suitability, so choosing the right type for the job is important. For large apertures such as windows, any filler will require something to cling to and the inside of the window frame will not be enough. Therefore, it’s always advisable to fix a piece of plastic card to the inside of the bodyshell first. Be aware that the re-fitting of any moulded glazing units may be affected by this new piece of plastic, so they’ll need to be modified accordingly. Most modelling fillers tend to shrink slightly during the curing process, so don’t be tempted to try and spread the material flush with the surface on the first attempt. Instead, build it up proud of the model and leave for around 24 hours to set completely. Milliput Superfine two-part epoxy putty is one of the most reliable fillers available. It sets rock-hard (if mixed correctly) and can be worked to an ultra-smooth finish, using a little water to help manipulate the putty into position. A file and abrasive paper can be used to work the cured filler flush with the model’s surface. When rubbing down with wet-and-dry paper (or sanding pads) begin with a coarse grade and work up to a very fine grit (such as 10,000 grade) in order to polish the surface to match the surrounding smooth plastic. Use plenty of clean water as a lubricant for the abrasives and clean the model thoroughly before priming and painting. Don’t be disheartened if the primer coat shows up some minor imperfections – simply add a little more putty, perhaps using a fast-setting, light-duty formula as sold by Tamiya, Squadron and Revell. Allow the surface to harden once again before rubbing down and re-priming. It may take a couple of tries to get a perfect finish, but this hard work will be rewarded.