GEORGE’S SEVEN LESSONS
TIP 1
If etched holes need to be opened out to accommodate wire or other parts, using tapered reamers is preferable to drill bits, especially with smaller, delicate components. A reamer offers more control and there’s less chance of distorting the brass, with drill bits often likely to ‘bite’ into the metal. Test the diameter of the aperture until the required size is achieved.
TIP 2
When holes do need to be drilled, clamp the part securely onto a flat piece of plywood and use a centre punch to form a small indent in the surface to guide the drill bit. Employ a few drops of light modelling oil to lubricate the drill bit while it cuts through the brass. If using a power drill, set it to the slowest speed and allow the bit to cut in its own time. Don’t force it, or there’s a good chance that the drill bit will break, or the brass will be distorted.
TIP 4
When parts need to be shaped to a curved profile, lay the brass face down onto the back of a foam PC mouse mat. Roll a metal rod or tube over the component, using gentle pressure. The brass will begin to curl upwards. By altering the diameter of the rolling rod and the amount of pressure, the radius of the curve can be tailored to suit your needs. The same process applies to parts of any size, with a longer rolling rod and foam mat required for carriage sides. Work gradually and check the profile at regular stages, using other parts as a guide if necessary – especially coach ends – until the desired shape is achieved.
TIP 5
A simple timber jig, consisting of a plywood base and softwood cheeks, fixed to a right angle and perpendicular to the base, helps when assembling bodyshells. Clamp the parts in position and check the angles with set squares before soldering the corners together.
TIP 6
Cleaning away all traces of flux residue is vital, especially when using acid-based formulae, as these can degrade the solder bonds in the long term if left in situ.
A thorough scrub in soapy water, using an old toothbrush or cotton swabs, can be followed by a rinse in clean water before setting the parts aside to dry.
TIP 3
Raised rivet heads will need to be formed into the brass before the parts are shaped and assembled. Like fold lines, half-etched location points will be provided, and these can be punched with a pointed scriber and a light hammer. Various dedicated punching tools are available, such as this simple device that features a weight that’s dropped down the shaft to impact on the punch head. By setting the height from which the weight is dropped, a consistent punching pressure can be achieved.
TIP 7
It isn’t necessary to solder every element of a metal kit, especially if you’re wary of working with whitemetal and low temperature solders. Smaller parts can be attached with glue after all of the soldering work is complete (and the surfaces have been cleaned). Epoxy glue offers a resilient bond for buffers and other exposed parts, while cyanoacrylate is perfect for smaller detail fittings.