Tips for realistic track
1
The layout had to be light, so it could be easily extracted from the display cabinet for operation. The cabinet would provide the much-needed support for most of the time, so four layers of 5mm foamboard were laminated.
2
Magazines are great for holding everything in place while the glue sets overnight. I used PVA to bond the layers of foamboard together. Later in the build, an outer shell of 5mm plywood was bonded to the sides and end for additional strength and a neat finish.
3
Peco’s point templates can be printed off from the website (www.peco-uk.com) and they’re great for messing around with ideas. Space was limited, but a single four-wheel wagon and a Class 08 diesel shunter or small tank locomotive work operationally.
4
After confirming where the track should go, it was attached with UHU glue, which allows a little adjustment before it goes off. It’s also waterproof, so dribbling diluted PVA over the ballast at a later stage won’t affect the joints.
5
Due to the limited height, any wiring had to be embedded into channels cut into the foamboard. Point operation would remain manual, rather than trying to embed point motors into a baseboard that’s only 2cm deep.
6
After adding vertical panels of foamboard to the rear and ends, I had to make sure that the layout would still fit inside the wooden case. It did – phew! I could then check that everything worked correctly before the scenic work began.
7
The track was painted with a mix of Halfords red and grey aerosol primers, along with a dusting of matt black. Spray the paint outdoors on a still day while wearing a suitable facemask. When dry, the track was carefully cleaned.
8
Insulation foam is ideal for creating rock faces. An old bread knife is all you need to carve a suitable texture. Be prepared to make a lot of mess! I finished it with a layer of interior repair plaster, spread thinly over the surface with a spatula.
9
Once set, the plaster was painted with dark brown/grey interior matt emulsion. I won’t list the exact colours because the brand names change frequently. Generally, I choose dull shades. Look at real rock faces for inspiration, they vary enormously.
10
I wanted a fine ash-style ballast, so I used sieved sand. This was tamped into place using a brush, and by tapping the track to help it bed in. I then misted over a little surgical spirit by dipping a toothbrush in it and flicking the bristles to create a spray.
11
The surgical spirit helps to break the surface tension. Before it dries, apply diluted PVA glue, either by flicking the toothbrush bristles or using an eyedropper/syringe. Mix the PVA 50/50 with water and a dash of washing-up liquid.
12
The canal wharf’s contours were created by cutting the layers of laminated foamboard, while DAS clay was employed to form the edge stones, with the individual courses scribed into the clay before it set.
13
With the bristles removed, the brass ferrule of an old paint brush makes the perfect stamping tool with which to impress cobblestones into the DAS clay before it dries. The ferrule’s profile can be shaped with pliers.
14
For very fine ballast, my preference is always to use DAS clay, pressed into the existing ballast. If wetted a little, it can also be worked into a slurry and applied with a stiff brush. Beware that you might soften any ballast underneath. 15
Ash Grey interior matt emulsion was brushed over the dried clay and ballast, stippling the paint between the sleepers. Looking at the real thing will give an idea of the different shades and tones that can be found around track.
16
Darker colours were washed around the track to suggest oily deposits. A little reddish brown can be dry brushed over the rail chairs. There is no need to be too tidy. The techniques here can be applied to most scales by the way.
17
A lighter shade of grey was then added, in fairly random fashion, followed by earthy browns. Emulsion match pots are great for this. Keep everything random, a dash here and there, to avoid an overly uniform effect. 18 For grassy areas on rocky and flat areas, tufts of hanging basket liner were glued down with PVA. When set, excess liner was snipped and pulled away. Static grass and various flocks are then applied on top. When choosing hanging basket liner from your local garden centre, try to select the type with traditional natural green fibres, for some lesser brands have strips of plastic in them. Hanging basket liner is mostly there to give depth.
19
Weedy, overgrown track is simple to recreate with static grass. First, selectively apply a little PVA with a small brush while avoiding getting glue on the sides of the rails.
20
Apply static grass with your favourite static grass tool (I used a Woodland Scenics ‘Static King’). Try to use shorter grasses. Here’s a rough guide: in ‘O’ gauge, nothing greater than 7mm; in ‘OO’, 4mm max; in ‘N’ gauge, 2mm max.
21
A light vacuum helps the fibres to stand upright. If you use a fresh hoover bag or a clean cylinder, any fibres that get sucked up into the machine can be extracted and reused.
22
Coloured flock powder has been sprinkled onto the wet glue to finish things off. When the PVA has set, a quick blast of hairspray will help keep everything in place – remember to clean the track thoroughly afterwards.