Philip John Pugh demonstrates a portable and lightweight composite model railway baseboard.
-
Philip John Pugh demonstrates a portable and lightweight baseboard.
The effort of lifting traditionally constructed baseboards is becoming more noticeable, both for myself and other members of Hazel Grove and District MRS. I therefore decided to build a proof-of-concept lightweight baseboard from partly recycled materials. My design incorporates a layer of 25mm expanded polystyrene sheet laminated with corrugated cardboard for rigidity and lightness. You could choose to replace the polystyrene sheet with another layer (or layers) of cardboard (running the grain at right-angles) to make the baseboard even more environmentally friendly.
It uses corrugated cardboard fruit boxes obtained from my local supermarket, which allows customers to take them for re-use. You will need three of exactly the same size and type for the main structure, plus another five to six to cut up for laminating, reinforcement and the minimal legs.
Using three boxes side-by-side produced a nominal 46in by 23in (116cm by 58cm) baseboard that would easily fit into my car and had a net weight of 10lbs (4.5kg). It is easy to carry due to the handholds left in the ends of the original boxes (which became the upright sides of the baseboard), and is surprisingly rigid. Experimentation with methods of wiring, tracklaying and lightweight scenery will be next. DCC control will be used, so hopefully the wiring stage should be straightforward, with no need for isolated sections and the like.
This article shows the principle involved. You can adapt the method to suit the size of baseboard that you require – the method is quite flexible. After assembly, I added a single additional laminating layer of cardboard to the outside of the baseboard sides (run the corrugations at right angles to those in the sides) for improved rigidity. To make it even easier to carry, I also opened out the existing handholds and cut a few new ones to even out the distribution of the load.
3 One of the end boxes is shown opened out prior to modifying the end flaps. Note that the long side, nearest the viewer, has been removed to allow this box to butt up to the middle box of the three used.
4
Modifying the flaps on each of the short sides of the two end boxes.
A. Remove about 50% of the flap, cutting away section A to the line.
B. Cut a notch in the bottom of the remainder about 1¼in (30mm) up from the bottom of the flap. This will allow the side flaps to be positioned on the inside of the finished sides, for a neater finish than I got in the Mk 1 version.
C. Leave section C in place for glueing later.
6 Close up of the end of the middle box. Leave section D in place, to be folded outwards and glued to the outside of the baseboard sides later, giving additional rigidity. Trim E if necessary to avoid a protrusion.
1
This shows the type of box I found most suitable. It has no internal bracing, is made of substantial corrugated cardboard and has high ends and sides. It is assembled with glue, not staples.
8
Cut the bases out of three other spare boxes. Cut one of these bases in half so that laminating on top of the polystyrene sheet will avoid coinciding with the joints at the bottom of the main structure.
5
The second, or middle, box is shown completely opened up and hung up on a blustery day. Cut away sections to leave the remainder of the box as shown.
7
Cut and fit a reinforcing piece of cardboard to strengthen the end of the baseboard (actually the side of the box). Run the grain at right angles for rigidity.
2
Carefully cutting through the glue lines with a bread knife to open up the box (either buy a dedicated bread knife or choose your moment with one from the kitchen!).
10 Glue the end flaps and clamp to the inside wall of the next box(es). I used a solvent-free high-grab adhesive (Hard As Nails exterior grade).
13 Adding the top laminating layer of cardboard to the polystyrene sheet. Note the initial half-section at the end of the box, to ensure that joints are staggered in all layers of the structure as you assemble the three boxes.
11
Glueing two boxes ready for installing the polystyrene sheet. When you install the sheet, make sure you also run a bead of glue along the edge of the sheet where it adjoins the cardboard structure, for extra rigidity.
16
The board is intended to join another, so a simple shelf of hardboard was glued into place to make alignment easier. The two boards will butt together using bulldog clips to hold them together while in use.
12 Hold the sides more or less vertical with masking tape or string while the glue sets to help them stay upright. You will have to use your ingenuity regarding clamping and weighting the structure while the glue sets at each stage.
14
Open out and completely flatten another box and glue this in place on the underside to overlap and reinforce both central joints. Don’t cut any of this box away, unless it protrudes beyond the sides of the baseboard.
15
My baseboard will sit on a table, so it only needs to have very short legs. They are made from three layers of scrap cardboard and double-sided tape.
17
The completed baseboard. The underlay has been fixed with either double-sided tape or PVA glue. Track has been fixed with 25mm dressmakingtype pins, pushed into place.
9
This was my first trial-fit of the first laminating section in the Mk 1 version.