STEP BY STEP

1

The instructions are comprehensive and show assembly one part at a time. However, the model is intended to be left in its bare wood finish and that was something I needed to change.

2

The window frames are laser-cut in a single thickness of 1mm ply. I began by spraying them with a couple of good coats of Games Workshop’s Citadel Corax White, which is a subtle off-white primer.

3

Each wall section is held in place by just two tiny ‘tags’. These are easily cut through with a sharp craft knife blade despite the thickness of the timber. I began with the main back wall section.

4

The tags will cut most easily if ‘nicked’ from both sides. Avoid undue pressure on components as some parts, such as the centre bars of window openings, can be easily broken.

5

The plans suggest several different ways to install the window frames. The easiest is to just glue them behind the openings but this results in them being very deeply recessed.

6

A dry run is essential in order to understand where all the parts go. They are carefully designed to only fit in one location but that depends on getting the roof the correct way up. Mark the TOP clearly to avoid confusion later.

7

This is how the window frames look mounted behind the opening. By the time I’ve added the Evergreen sheet and some styrene strip window frames, they will be far too deeply recessed.

8

I kept my reference photographs close and referred to them frequently. I started with the rear wall, as this is one piece. There will be two sections of the cladding and a brick chimney for which I used a piece of a Wills sheet.

9

The tabs can be a tight fit in the slots, so to avoid having to use undue pressure, I smoothed the corners and edges of the tabs on a piece of abrasive paper. An emery board is a useful tool for this job.

10

When cutting and fitting the Evergreen sheet, ensure it fits flush against the roof overhang and also that it covers the slots and cut-outs where the adjoining walls will locate.

11

The Evergreen overlays need to be cut to the full length of the wall, including any tabs, and they can be trimmed back as necessary during the assembly to give perfect corners. You can never do too much test-fitting.

12

I marked out the window openings with a sharp pencil onto the back of the Evergreen sheet before glueing it in place on the wall. This makes the cutting out easier.

13

I could then cut out the window openings on a cutting mat with a steel rule and craft knife, cutting to the outside of the drawn line. The pencil was very sharp and the marking really tight around the opening.

14

Initially I left the styrene in place on the window pillars (mullions) but I later thought better of it and removed the styrene. Once the cladding was complete I sprayed the entire wall with the Corax White.

15

With the styrene sheet glued firmly in place with Velo-set and allowed to dry, and the styrene removed from the mullions, I set about tidying the edges of the window openings with a file to create nice, flush edges.

16

The next job was a bit of a skill test, as each of the individual window frames had to be cut from the group. I used a very sharp craft knife blade and steel rule, cutting from both sides. It leaves a very fine, fragile frame.

17

I used Evergreen No. 143 .040in by .060in strip for the window frames, having painted the strip in Omen Scenic Camo Brown first. The strip is glued on edge for the windowsill and flat for the other three sides.

18

With a fine bead of Velo-set round the edge of the opening, each of the individual frames was gently pressed into place, its back flush with the inside face of the wall. A single piece of glazing was then used to back each group of windows.

19

The frames and glazing for the windows in the front wall recess were done in the same way but the pairs of frames were not separated, as there is no central pillar.

20

It took several evening’s work to complete all the wall sections. I also painted the edges of the flat roof/ceiling and marked the top clearly as I had got it wrong on several of the dry runs.

21

Care and a fresh scalpel blade are needed for cutting out the window frames. This photograph also shows how the Evergreen sheet overlaps the end tab so that the edge of the adjoining wall is covered.

22

Once all the walls were complete, assembly began. This was done upside-down, using the roof/ceiling as a base. Velo-set was used for assembly, taking care to ensure the longer walls did not warp.

23

I began with the back and one end, followed by the three pieces that make up the recess on the platform side. All the assembly needs to be done before the glue sets, as a little bit of manoeuvring will be needed to locate the tabs.

24

The last section to be fitted was the front wall. I had broken the narrow strip and repaired it but this is hidden by the cladding overlay.

I left most of the doors in their unpainted wood finish.

25

The walls of the main section are all assembled and the remaining three wall sections and ceiling form an annexe attached to one end. The fit of parts is tight, so there was no need for clamps to hold it while the glue set.

26

Now I needed to understand the arrangement of the roof as it is quite complex. I was not sure I wanted to use the 3mm thick roof sections supplied but I did install all the supporting pieces for the hipped roof.

27

As I suspected, using the wooden roof pieces leaves an ‘edge’ showing around the eaves. I wanted to use Scalescenes printed slates but that edge would mean there was nothing to which to attach the first row of slates.

28

I cut new roof pieces from 2mm mount card using the wooden parts as a pattern. I find it best to stick with methods that work for me and I am comfortable with the card. I had to trim the two locating tabs back flush with the card.

29

I used Scalescenes TX18 grey slates. These are a download which you buy and print as many times as you wish. There are two sheets, a grid of guide lines which is glued in place first. Tile strips are then added, overlapping.

30

Each chimney stack is made up of three layers of the 3mm plywood. I clamped each stack in a vice while the glue dried, to prevent warping. I then covered the completed chimney stack with Scalescenes brick paper.

31

I cut the two pieces for the annexe roof from 2mm mount card, again using the wood parts as a pattern. The triangular hip end was also cut from mount card, working from measurements taken from the roof.

32

I had forgotten to cut the hole for the chimney so I had to do this once the roof was in place and slated. A sharp knife and some checking against the actual chimney were needed.

33

Any discrepancy around the chimney base can be covered by some folded paper flashings. I fit over-length strips of the Scalescenes slates on a hipped roof. Once the glue has dried I trim them back with sharp scissors and add the ridge tiles.

34

I’m a sucker for signs, and Scalescenes sheet R001a provides for BR station signs in Scottish Region light blue, so I took the liberty of providing Dornoch with a few that were not present on the real thing.