STEP BY STEP

SETTING THE SCENE

1

First step was to construct the baseboard. It had to fit a precise location, and Grainge & Hodder was able to provide a suitable bespoke cut based on one of its standard designs.

2

The joy of laser-cut boards is that assembly is an enjoyably simple experience. From opening the box to applying the first coat of paint took about five hours. Sorted.

3

Next step was to sort out a track plan, but obviously with the serious compression involved it would be more about getting the feel of the location. When track planning, I tend to use printable Peco point templates available for free to download from their website. However, on this occasion I had a dabble with computer design software. Being a Mac user, there isn’t a great deal out there, however Railmodeller Pro www.railmodeller.com is available. It’s a simple drag-and-drop-style program with track libraries for most manufacturers. Once a plan is created, it will give you a list of all the part numbers to put on your shopping list.

4

Much use was made of Peco three-way points to make maximum use of the tight space. Because the layout was to be DCC, additional wiring took place as recommended by Peco before fixing the track down with UHU glue. Peco supplies simple instructions with the points for the extra wiring required.

5

My normal approach is to lay track onto 5mm foamboard, allowing the track to be installed at the workbench rather than leaning over a baseboard. The finished foamboard base is then glued to the baseboard, followed by the wiring stage. Ballasting followed, initially using fine sand, secured with diluted PVA glue.

6

Before the PVA is applied, the sand is sprinkled with surgical spirit, which aids penetration. When fully dry, DAS clay can be mixed with water to create a slurry. This is then brushed into the ballast and around the sleepers. When dry, the track and groundwork can be painted (see full demo in MR283).