STEP BY STEP

1

Before I got too excited and started diving in with dropper wires and scenery, I did some experiments with batteries in powering twin tracks. I wanted to determine the number of batteries needed to get the locomotives to move at the desired speed and make sure they wouldn’t run out too quickly.

2

I knew the curves would have to be tight and that I’d use short-wheelbase locomotives. I formed a tight curve with Flexitrack held against a card template, applying cyanoacrylate between the gaps in the plastic webbing. I did the same with the ‘N’ gauge track but cut away every other sleeper to get the desired curve.

3

When you’ve established that the models will go round a curve that tight, mark the layout shape on the baseboard using a flexible curve ruler, (this can also be done freehand using the marked track outline as a guide). This will allow you to see where the track is going to be in the next steps.

4

As with any project, planning is key. Here I put the initial twin track arrangement in place with a couple of buildings tried for size. It’s important to do this, as if you don’t you may find that you’ve underestimated how much space something needs to look right.

5

The MDF narrow gauge track base is supported on 35mm long card tubes.

I opted for this because I wanted to keep the weight down and make it easy to move. Given that the narrow gauge track base wasn’t going to be very heavy, I didn’t need a superstructure to hold it up.

6

The dropper wires from the tracks are connected to the battery holder using connecting blocks. A toggle switch operating each track is glued to the underside of the layout in a recess cut into the edge of the baseboard. Once I was satisfied, I ballasted the track in the usual diluted PVA way.

7

The entrances to the tunnel on the upper level are constructed from 12mm by 6mm stripwood which I checked with a locomotive to ensure they were wide enough and wouldn’t cause any fouling. The track crossing at the bottom is simply cut and shaped from balsawood.

8

Use a pencil attached to the side of the widest wagon to mark the overhang and ensure you won’t fall foul of any large swing as the model makes the sharp turn. The pencil will mark the board at a slightly wider point than the wagon is, so you have peace of mind with clearances.

9

The tunnel shell is made with a foundation of craft wire, with each length being bent and glued at equal spacings between the rear of the tunnel and the base. As with everything on this layout, lightness was key, yet the wire still provides a strong base.

10

The tunnel cross webbing is masking tape applied to the craft wire armature with lolly sticks cut to length, and matchsticks, forming the embankment foundation.

11

Strips of diluted PVA glue-soaked kitchen towel were applied with a brush to form a hard exterior shell. Be sure to protect the track on the inside of the tunnel. This doesn’t have to be anything special, scrap paper was enough to stop dripping glue getting on the track.

12

To make the landscape, I used a mix of grass and rocks and stone formations. These formations were created using a mixture of cork bark, actual stone chippings and acrylic filler, stippled on with the side of a knife. The steps and crossing are again constructed from balsawood.

13

Areas where grass, foliage and trees are to be glued were first painted with a green base colour. This will help to hide the white kitchen towel should there be any gaps in the final scenery. An undercoat of green will barely be noticeable, whereas a white dot would show up quite badly.

14

The buildings are a mix of card and plastic kits which are fixed to the baseboard with Blu Tack, allowing the buildings to be easily removed if required. Metcalfe pre-printed card sheets are used for paving between buildings and for constructing walls.

15

A battery-operated, pre-wired LED harness (available in various lengths – the type used for decorative lighting etc) was used to light the buildings. The LEDS on the wiring harness are supplied at fixed spacings, so only some of them can be used to illuminate the buildings.

16

Buildings are illuminated from the underside by inserting one of the LEDS on the wiring harness up through a hole in the baseboard. Kitchen foil is glued to the board to increase lighting efficiency. In some cases part of the base of buildings required cutting out.

17

Wiring is fixed under the baseboard with tape. Switches are glued under a recess cut into the board. A shelf was made from thin plywood to house the track and battery holders. Also shown are two of the four rubber feet for standing the layout on a table. These are screwed through brackets to which legs can be attached.

18

The voltage can be increased by adding another battery. The voltage can be reduced by making a shorting plug from wood dowel with a screw inserted into each end of the dowel and the screws connected with wire. The plug is inserted into a battery holder in place of a battery.

19

To give the impression of nature taking over the retaining wall, I used parts of a Metcalfe printed card retaining wall kit to cover the back of the tunnel and then covered portions of it in scenery. As the layout would go in the centre and be viewed from all sides I had to make sure all viewing angles looked good.

20

The final stages are to add in the buildings and finishing touches to complete the layout. Here you can see a bird’s-eye view showing the layout arrangement. Given the small size of the layout, you can’t get a lot on the board, but there is enough to interest viewers.

21

As anyone who has built a layout will know, you can always add more small details to replicate the real world. I added some back yard items as the layout can be viewed from all sides. The wall is constructed from printed sheet card.

22

I was unhappy with the steps going up to the top level. The Health and Safety police would surely rule that I needed some handrails. I got some styrene rod and cut it to length, glueing the upright supports in place before painting it the desired colour.

23

Although the layout is designed to sit on a table, it isn’t a problem if there isn’t one for it to rest on, as I have some screw-on legs which sit nicely in the holes on the underside of the board, meaning I can take the layout wherever I go.

24

With the layout complete I can load the wagons with sugar cubes and biscuits. Time for tea – one lump or two?