STEP BY STEP

1

The easiest way to get inside the ‘PWM’ model is to gently unclip the two plastic boxes either side of the chassis block at the nose end. These are a push-fit with two prongs sitting inside holes in the metal frame.

2

With the plastic boxes removed, two small crosshead screws will be revealed. These secure the bonnet to the frames. Simply remove the screws and put them in a safe place, such as a lidded container.

3

The two screws will release the nose end of the bonnet, but the cab end is secured with small plastic clips. Gently insert a plastic shim between the cab and running plate and joggle the clip free. Do the same on the other side.

4

With retaining clips freed, the cab and bonnet can be carefully lifted away. The Next18 DCC interface is atop the circuit board, with the mounting point for a small ‘sugar cube’ speaker, with a max size of 4.5mm by 8mm by 15mm.

5

Now’s a good time to install figures inside the cab. Although a pair of seats are provided, I added a standing figure, although he had to be trimmed at the ankles to ensure he stood at the correct height in relation to the cab windows.

6

I wanted to recreate a slightly faded look to my yellow ‘PWM’, so I began by dabbing a mix of white, buff and grey oil paints over the bodywork, working on a small area at a time (such as one side of the bonnet).

7

The oils can be wiped over the surface with dry cotton swabs. The paint dries slowly, so there’s no hurry. The surface immediately takes on a washed-out look. Thinners on a swab or brush allows for further manipulation (or removal). 8

The same process was followed over the rest of the body. I barely used any thinners, and it must be kept away from clear glazing. The ‘filtering’ effect can be subtle; for greater fading, repeat if necessary, once the initial layer is dry. 9

The oils need at least 24 hours to dry before continuing. A neutral shade of enamel weathering wash followed. After shaking the jar thoroughly, it was brushed into the surface detail, again working on one area at a time.

10

Dry cotton swabs removed most of the wash, working in vertical strokes, leaving pigment within panel seams and around raised details. A brush and/or swab dampened in thinners allows further manipulation.

11

If NEM couplers aren’t required, fit the blanking plates (priming and painting beforehand). After the weathering wash treatment, the small details can be installed: coupling pole brackets are supplied, as are dummy screw couplings.

12

Once the neutral wash had dried overnight, I felt some of the deeper seams needed a darker shade, so MIG Dark enamel wash was applied into the recesses with a fine brush. Fluid finds its own way along the seams by capillary action.

13

While the dark wash on the body dried, I mixed a textured coating from matt black acrylic paint and Dark Earth dry pigment, stippling over the wheel faces, chassis frames, bufferheads and the top of the running plate using a flat brush.

14

The textured coating looks a little rough when dry, but the effect was refined with a fine misting of thinned enamels. A mix of Dark Rust, Frame Dirt and Weathered Black was sprayed at low pressure, building a few very light coats.

15

A blend of Weathered Black and Frame Dirt was also misted over the body, only when the preceding wash was dry. A very fine layer of grime was misted over the bonnet top and cab roof, and along the lower edges of the body.

16

The airbrushed weathering was left overnight to cure before the wheels were given a thorough clean with cotton swabs dipped in isopropyl alcohol. A 9V battery held against the wheels allows the motor to run (only do this BEFORE a DCC chip has been installed!).

17

To reassemble, the body must be clipped back into the frames. The floor mounted interior fitting (circled) needs to pass behind the controls (also circled) as the cab is refitted, which demands a little care. Bending the controls slightly will provide clearance.

18

Ensure that the locating clips are securely pushed home and add the two small crosshead screws to pull everything together. The two plastic boxes (weathered separately from the chassis) can then be re-clipped into place.