HOW TO MAKE… A TAS­SELLED CRO­CHET BAG

Mollie Makes - - Loving -

MA­TE­RI­ALS

QQQQQDROPS Muskat, 100% cot­ton, 50g/100m per ball, or sim­i­lar dou­ble knit cot­ton, six balls of the main colour for the body of the bag and strap, two balls for the fringe. 3.5mm (UK 9, US E/4) cro­chet hook Tape mea­sure Ta­pes­try nee­dle Scis­sors and pins

MEA­SURE­MENTS

The fin­ished bag is ap­prox. 26cm (10¼") high by 29cm (11½") wide, ex­clud­ing the fringe. The strap is ap­prox. 120cm (47") long.

TEN­SION

Ap­prox. 12 stitches and 10 rows to 10cm (4") square, worked over the pat­tern.

ABBREVIATI­ONS (UK)

st(s) stitch(es) ch chain ch-sp(s) chain space(s) dc dou­ble cro­chet htr half tre­ble ss slip stitch yrh yarn round hook htr3­tog half tre­ble 3 to­gether – (yrh, in­sert hook in next st, yrh and pull up loop) three times, yrh and draw through all loops on hook st-htr3­tog start­ing half tre­ble 3 to­gether – ch3, (yrh, in­sert hook in next st, yrh and pull up loop) twice, yrh and draw through all 5 loops on hook bob­ble see be­low Whether you’re headed down to the park for an ice cream or off to shimmy the af­ter­noon away at a fes­ti­val, this boho beaut is sure to be­come your es­sen­tial sum­mer com­pan­ion. Keep it sim­ple and all one shade, or stand out with a bold fringe and mul­ti­ple stripes. If you fancy a hippy-ish, home­spun vibe, make the fringe out of all your odd bits of yarn – this has the added bonus of be­ing a great stash buster. The sug­gested strap length should al­low the bag to sit com­fort­ably on your bum when worn cross body, but you can ad­just to what­ever length you like.

In­struc­tions

The bag is made in the fol­low­ing main pieces: the front piece and the back/top flap piece. Th­ese are cro­cheted to­gether and a bob­ble stitch edg­ing is added. The strap is worked separately and sewn to the body of the bag. The fringe is added last.

Mak­ing the front

Made from the bot­tom up­wards. Foun­da­tion ch31, turn Row 1 2htr in 4th st from hook (the 3ch missed counts as 1htr), 1htr in each of next 26ch, 3htr in the last ch, turn (32sts) Row 2 ch3 (counts as 1htr), 2htr in st at base of ch, 1htr in each st un­til last st, 3htr in last st, turn (36sts) Rows 3-6 Re­peat Row 2 (52sts) Row 7 ch3 (counts as 1htr), 1htr in each st to end, turn (52sts) Rows 8-21 Re­peat Row 7 Break yarn and fas­ten off.

Back and top flap

Made from the bot­tom of the back, up to the top and shaped for the flap. Work as front up to and in­clud­ing Row 7. Rows 8-32 Re­peat Row 7 Row 33 st-htr3­tog, 1htr in each st un­til last 3 sts, htr3­tog, turn (48sts) Rows 34-39 Re­peat Row 3 (24sts) Break yarn and fas­ten off.

Join­ing the front to the back

Align the front and back pieces to­gether, us­ing pins to se­cure in place. Join­ing round Re­join yarn at the top left of the front and work dc evenly through both the front and back sts, first down the left side, then across the bot­tom and then up the right side. When the front and back are joined, con­tinue the dc around the top flap of the bag, join with a ss in the first st of the round. Note: it's im­por­tant to end with a mul­ti­ple of 3 sts on this round, so count your sts as you go. Bob­ble stitch round ch4, 1bob­ble in 3rd st of pre­vi­ous round, *miss 2sts, ch1, 1 bob­ble st; re­peat from * till the end of the round, join with

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