Beat the chills

Cosy up in Anna Wilkinson's snowy peak moun­tain wrist warm­ers – prefer­ably while hold­ing some­thing hot and mulled

Mollie Makes - - Loving -

HOW TO MAKE… MOUN­TAIN WRIST WARM­ERS

MA­TE­RI­ALS

Jamieson’s DK, 100% Shet­land wool, 25g/75m per ball: one ball each in Blue­bell (665) (Colour A), La­goon (660) (Colour B) and China Blue (655) (Colour C) Rowan Pure Su­perwash Wool DK, 100% Wool, 50g/130m per ball, one in Snow (012) (Colour D) Rico De­sign Essentials Merino DK, 100% Merino, 50g/120m, one ball in Sil­ver Grey (98) (Colour E) Set of five 3.25mm (UK 10/ US 3) dou­ble pointed sock nee­dles (or cir­cu­lar nee­dles) Set of five 3.75mm (UK 9/!US 5) dou­ble pointed sock nee­dles (or cir­cu­lar nee­dles) Stitch marker Tapestry nee­dle

TEN­SION

24 sts and 32 rows to 10cm (4") mea­sured over stock­ing stitch on 3.75mm nee­dles

AB­BRE­VI­A­TIONS (UK)

st(s) stitch(es) k knit p purl st st stock­ing st: if!knit­ting on dpns or cir­cu­lar nee­dles knit all rounds; if knit­ting on straight nee­dles – knit one row, purl one row re­peated

FIN­ISHED SIZE

Fin­ished di­men­sions 10 x 19cm (4 x 7½") If we can’t jet off to some snowy moun­tain peaks this win­ter, we can at least knit our own. There’s some­thing of the après ski feel to th­ese fun wrist warm­ers – we're pic­tur­ing our­selves wear­ing them while sat in a wooden alpine chalet, sip­ping on eggnog or mulled ap­ple juice.

They’re knit­ted in the round, so no sewing up at the end. Play around with colour and use up scraps of DK yarn to give a ram­shackle patch­work feel, and add lurex to the peaks for a 'freshly fallen' look. This pat­tern is writ­ten in the round us­ing dou­ble pointed sock nee­dles with the work­ing yarns car­ried around the in­side of the work us­ing fair isle or stranded tech­nique (see box, above right, for more de­tail on how to do this.) This will add a lit­tle thick­ness and in­su­la­tion to the knit­ting. How­ever, you may choose in­stead to knit them on a pair of nee­dles, work­ing back­wards and for­wards rather than in the round. If you choose to knit them this way you could still use the fair isle tech­nique, or you could use in­tar­sia.

Left hand wrist warmer

Us­ing 3.25mm nee­dles and Colour A, cast on 50 sts ar­rang­ing evenly across 4 nee­dles (12 on first, 13 on se­cond, 12 on third, and 13 on fourth). Round 1 Join­ing cast on row into the round (en­sure that your knit­ting doesn’t get twisted): *k1, p1; re­peat from * to end of round. Mark the end of your round with a stitch marker. Re­peat Round

1 (to form 1x1 rib at the bot­tom of your wrist warm­ers) un­til your work mea­sures 5cm (2") from cast on edge. Change to size 3.75mm nee­dles and be­gin work­ing from the pat­tern chart (above left) now, work­ing in stock­ing stitch, work from right to left on the chart as you work each round and carry all work­ing colour yarns around the back of the work us­ing fair isle tech­nique. Con­tinue work­ing through the chart un­til you fin­ish Round 20. ** Thumb hole shap­ing: Round 21 k21 in pat­tern, cast off the next 4 sts, work to end of round. Round 22 Work in pat­tern to cast off sts, turn, cast on 4 sts, turn, work to end of round. Con­tinue work­ing in chart pat­tern to end of chart. Cast off.

Right hand wrist warmer

Work as left hand wrist warmer un­til ** Thumb hole shap­ing: Round 21 k25 in pat­tern, cast off the next 4 sts, work to end of round. Round 22 Work in pat­tern to cast off stitches, turn, cast on 4 sts, turn,

work to end of round. Con­tinue work­ing in chart pat­tern to end of chart. Cast off.

Fin­ish­ing

Weave in any ends to the in­side of the wrist warmer. To neaten up the thumb holes, stitch around the out­side with a sim­ple em­broi­dery stitch such as blan­ket stitch.

Slip on, and ven­ture out­side for snowy ad­ven­tures.

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