HOW TO MAKE… BABY SHOES
We can’t think of a sweeter gift for a little one than these teeny tiny moccasins – the ultimate way to start a lifetime’s obsession with shoes. These keepsake makes are sturdy enough to withstand a serious amount of toddling, and their soft, slipper-like feel will keep toes cosy while they’re at it.
Easy to personalise, they’re also a thoughtful gift for friends expecting a new arrival. Choose from three sizes: 3-6 months, 6-9 months or 9-12 months.
Alice only uses ethical leather for her shoes, so recommends you repurpose an old leather item, or opt for faux leather instead. If you’re making these to sell at a craft fair or for charity, please credit Alice’s brand, Amy & Ivor, for the design – you can find full details of our Make to Sell policy on page 6.
Photocopy and cut out the templates in your chosen size from page 97. Using the cutting mat and craft knife, cut out all pattern pieces, cutting the sole from the beige leather and the remainder from the mint leather. If you don’t have a craft knife, draw around the templates with a pencil and use a pair of scissors to cut out instead.
With the templates still on top of the pattern pieces, use the awl to indent the marked holes into the leather. Punch the holes into the leather where marked on the template, using a 2mm ( /8") punch for the smaller holes and a 4mm ( ") punch for the larger holes.
Cut in the tassels on the tassel piece along the marked lines using a craft knife or scissors, then cut the ends of the gold leather laces at an angle for ease of threading.
Take one sole, one front piece and one back piece, then lay the pieces out right side (RS) up so the A and B marks on the left-hand side of the sole, right-hand side of the back and right-hand side of the front are all aligned. Thread your needle, tying a knot at the base, then start stitching at the hole between the A and B marks. Stitch from the wrong side ( WS) out to the RS on all layers through the hole nearest the edge, first through the front piece, then the back piece, and lastly through the sole.
Stitch back through the top hole positioned one hole to the right – just through the upper part of the shoe, not the sole. Then, work back through all three layers, directly below the hole you just came out of. Pulling your stitches tightly as you go, continue around
the front of the shoe, creating a neat row of stitches on the RS which slant towards the right. On the WS, your stitches will appear smaller and will be vertical.
When you reach the other side of the shoe, stitch through all three layers again, making sure the A and B holes line up on each piece. Continue stitching in the same way around the heel, keeping the stitches tight and even, until you get to where you started.
Stitch back around the shoe again, this time working your stitches in the opposite direction. This will create a cross stitch effect on the RS, and should go over the vertical stitches again on the WS. Make sure the gathering effect on the sole is even as you go, then adjust the stitches so the seam and sole look even when finished.
Fold the tassel piece along the marked line, then match up the larger holes in the back piece with the same large holes on the tassel piece. Start threading your lace at one end, working from the outside of the tassel piece and the outside of the back piece. Push the lace in through the hole nearest the fringing on the tassel piece, through the corresponding hole in the back piece, then back through the top hole on the tassel piece to fold it over the top of the back piece, creating a neat cuff.
Repeat Step 8 on the next hole, this time working from the inside of the shoe to the outside, using the lace to create a simple oversized running stitch. Continue around the top of the shoe, working from the outside to the inside and back again, then pull the lace so it’s an even length on both sides.
Repeat Steps 4-9 for the second shoe, then tie the laces to finish.