Geo shapes in bright shades make Karen Lewis’ quilt a summer es­sen­tial

Mollie Makes - - Contents - Karen Lewis Karen is a screen printer, fab­ric de­signer and quil­ter. She’s trav­elled all around the UK, to Den­mark and to the US, shar­ing her pas­sion of print­ing while teach­ing her work­shops. When she’s not work­ing, Karen loves get­ting lost in the coun­trys

Bold shades in easy-sew shapes to in­ject a pop of colour into your home


80 x 80cm (31½ x 31½") Robert Kauf­man Kona Cot­ton Solids in Aza­lea (Fab­ric 1) 55 x 55cm (215/ x 8 215/ 8") Robert Kauf­man Kona Cot­ton Solids in Cot­ton Candy (Fab­ric 2) 115cm (1¼ yd) Robert Kauf­man Spot On in Medium Dot White (Fab­ric 3) 95cm (1 yd) Robert Kauf­man Blue­berry Park by Karen Lewis Tex­tiles in Al­lot­ment in Aqua (Fab­ric 4) Fat quar­ter of Robert Kauf­man Blue­berry Park by Karen Lewis Tex­tiles in Al­lot­ment in Wasabi (Fab­ric 5) 127 x 178cm (50 x 70") back­ing fab­ric 127 x 178cm (50 x 70") cot­ton wad­ding 50cm (½ yd) bind­ing fab­ric Quilt­ing ruler Tai­lor’s chalk

Pack away those win­ter du­vets and throw this across your bed in­stead. Spring is here, summer’s on its way, and we need a quilt that’s go­ing to shout about it.

If you’ve never tried your hand at quilt­mak­ing be­fore, this en­try-level project is a great place to start. The sim­ple geo­met­ric shapes make for a lot less sewing than you might think, and we’ve used a sim­ple top stitch­ing method to fin­ish.

Re­fer to the lay­out im­age above when putting yours to­gether, and use a 0.5cm (¼") seam al­lowance un­less stated other­wise.

01 Cut Fab­ric 1 across the di­ag­o­nal, then dis­card one of the tri­an­gles.

02 Mark two points on Fab­ric 2, one 19cm (7½") up from the bot­tom right-hand cor­ner and one 38cm (15") across from the bot­tom right-hand cor­ner. Draw a line join­ing these two points and cut along this line. Dis­card the smaller tri­an­gle shape.

03 From Fab­ric 3, cut a 26.5 x 103cm (10½ x 40½") piece (mak­ing Fab­ric 3B) and a 80cm (31½") square. Cut the square across the di­ag­o­nal, from top left to bot­tom right, and dis­card one of the tri­an­gles. The re­main­ing tri­an­gle is Fab­ric 3A.

04 From Fab­ric 4, cut a 26.5 x 90cm (10½ x 35½") piece (Fab­ric 4A) and a 26.5 x 52cm (10 x 20 ") piece (Fab­ric 4B).

05 From Fab­ric 5, cut a 14 x 39cm (5½" x 153/ 8") piece (Fab­ric 5A) and a 40.5 x 20cm (16" x 77/ 8") tri­an­gu­lar piece (Fab­ric 5B), with the right an­gle po­si­tioned in the bot­tom right-hand cor­ner.

06 Place Fabrics 1 and 3A with right sides (RS) to­gether. Pin along the di­ag­o­nal, then sew along this line us­ing a 0.5cm (¼") seam al­lowance. Press and trim the large half square tri­an­gle (HST) to 77.5cm (30½") square, us­ing the 45° line on the ruler to keep the block ac­cu­rate. This will be Block A.

07 Place Fabrics 2 and 5B with RS to­gether, align­ing the di­ag­o­nal edges – there should be a slight over­lap at ei­ther end of Fab­ric 5 as shown. Pin and sew along the di­ag­o­nal, then press and trim the

square to 52cm (20½"). Trim from the cor­ner of Fab­ric 5 to make sure you have enough of that fab­ric in the piece. This will be Block B.

08 Place Block B and Fab­ric 4B with RS to­gether, align­ing the 52cm (20½") edges. Pin along the 52cm (20½") edge with Fabrics 2 and 5B and sew. This will be Block C.

09 With RS to­gether, pin and sew Block C and Block A along the edge of Fab­ric 3A, and the edge with Fabrics 2, 5B and 4B. This will be Block D.

10 With RS to­gether, pin and sew Fabrics 4A and 5A along one short edge. This will be Block E.

11 With RS to­gether, align the long edge of Block D with Fabrics 1 and 2, and one long edge of Block E. Pin and sew to make Block F.

12 With RS to­gether, align one long edge of Fab­ric 3B with the short edge of Block F con­tain­ing Fabrics 2 and 4B. Pin and sew.

13 Place the back­ing fab­ric RS down, then lie the cot­ton wad­ding on top, and fi­nally the quilt top RS up. Align the edges, then pin or spray baste them to­gether.

14 To quilt, top stitch hor­i­zon­tal lines across the width of the quilt, keep­ing them an equal dis­tance apart. Trim any ex­cess wad­ding and back­ing fab­ric to neaten.

15 Sew the bind­ing strips to­gether into one long length, then press in half along the length with wrong sides to­gether.

16 Start­ing half­way along one edge, pin the bind­ing to the quilt with RS to­gether and align­ing raw edges, leav­ing 10cm (4") un­at­tached at the start. Sew 0.5cm (¼") in from the edge of the quilt, then turn it 45° and sew to the cor­ner. Re­move from the machine and ro­tate to the next edge.

17 Pull the bind­ing strip away from the quilt, in line with the raw edge, so it forms a 45° an­gle at the cor­ner. Hold the fold in place, then bring the bind­ing strip back down along the next edge of the quilt, align­ing the raw edges. Pin and sew as per Step 16.

18 Con­tinue bind­ing all edges, stop­ping 10cm (4") from the start­ing point. Fold back the two ends of the bind­ing at 45° so they touch, then mark with a pin. Open the bind­ing and join the ends with a di­ag­o­nal seam. Trim to a 0.5cm (¼") seam, press open, then re­fold and stitch the bind­ing in place.

19 Fold the bind­ing over to the other side of the quilt and slip stitch in place by hand. To mitre the cor­ners, fold the edges over in the op­po­site or­der to the front.



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