ORIGAMI HANGING

Score, fold and stick your way to state­ment art with Sarah Louise Matthews’ hanging

Mollie Makes - - Contents - Sarah Louise Matthews Sarah is a pa­per en­gi­neer and pa­per prod­uct de­signer who makes fun, in­no­va­tive sta­tionery, art­work and dec­o­ra­tions. She also cre­ates be­spoke com­mis­sions for any­thing from wed­dings to vis­ual mer­chan­dis­ing, and is ob­sessed with beau­tif

Cre­ate striking wall art us­ing pa­per shapes

A4 pa­per, 135gsm, six pieces each in yel­low and peach, five pieces each in mint and gold, four pieces in orange and three pieces in rose gold (we used G.F. Smith Color­plan) Em­boss­ing tool Cut­ting mat Ruler Craft glue Fish­ing wire Marker pen Crimp beads Flat-nosed pli­ers Ta­pes­try nee­dle Five two pence coins Dou­ble sided tape Wooden pole, 40cm (15 "), 2cm ( ")

Up­date your home with a crafty make that ticks all the right boxes – easy to whip up, vis­ually pleas­ing and in­ex­pen­sive. Clean lines and crisply-folded shapes tap into the home­ware trend for all things origami, while the zesty colour pal­ette brings all the summer feels to any room.

Sarah’s wa­ter­fall of geo­met­ric shapes uses a com­bi­na­tion of matte pas­tel pa­pers and shim­mer­ing metallics to add to the sense of move­ment – just think how lovely it’ll look when it catches the sun­light. Follow the main im­age for shape place­ment and colour com­bos when putting your ver­sion to­gether, or cre­ate your own lay­out with pa­pers from your stash.

If you don’t have an em­boss­ing tool or a bone folder, use a but­ter knife or sim­i­lar to lightly score along the dot­ted lines in­stead.

Print or pho­to­copy the tem­plates on page 99 onto your pa­pers. Cut out each shape – there should be 55 dif­fer­ent shapes in to­tal. Work­ing on a cut­ting mat, use an em­boss­ing tool (or a bone folder) and a ruler to score the dot­ted lines. Fold along each scored line, mak­ing sure to keep the printed lines on the inside of each shape.

02 Glue each tab to the un­der­side of the ad­ja­cent edge to form the 3D shapes, leav­ing one side open, ex­cept for the icosa­he­dron (the 20-sided shape), which needs two ad­ja­cent sides left unglued.

03 Cut a 150cm (591/ 8") length of fish­ing wire. Start­ing 25cm (97/ 8") from one end, use the marker pen to make eleven marks along the wire at 10cm (4") in­ter­vals.

04 Thread a crimp bead onto the wire, po­si­tion­ing it over the first mark, then use the pli­ers to squash the bead closed. This end of the wire is now the top.

05 Use the main im­age as a guide to the or­der in which the shapes need to be threaded on. Take your first shape (this will sit at the top of the wire) and pierce two holes through two op­po­site faces, or points, with the nee­dle. Thread the top end of the wire into the first hole and out of the sec­ond, then glue the open side of the shape closed.

06 Push the shape down to­wards the bead, then thread on a sec­ond bead from the top end of the wire. Use a pair of pli­ers to squash it closed as closely to the shape as pos­si­ble, so it has a closed bead on ei­ther side to se­cure it in place. Only the first shape re­quires a bead on ei­ther side; all other shapes only need a bead be­neath.

07 Pierce two holes in your sec­ond shape – the sec­ond shape down –

as per Step 5. From now on, you’ll be thread­ing ev­ery­thing onto the bot­tom end of the wire. Thread the wire through the two holes, then glue the shape closed. Thread on a bead and crimp it closed over the next mark. Re­peat un­til there are ten shapes in to­tal on the wire, each sep­a­rated by a bead.

08 Hold the fi­nal shape against the length of wire, align­ing the bot­tom of the shape with the fi­nal mark. Use the pen to make a new mark on the fish­ing wire, in line with the top of the shape.

09 Pierce one hole in the shape, then thread the wire through. Thread on a bead be­low, crimp­ing it over the mark made in Step 8, then trim off any ex­cess wire. Glue a two pence coin to the inside of the shape to weigh it down, then glue the shape closed. Re­peat Steps 3-9 to make five strings of shapes.

10 Mark the first string 5cm (2") up from the top shape. Re­peat for the third and fifth strings. For the sec­ond and fourth strings, mark 10cm (4") up.

11 Thread a bead onto the top end of the first string. Feed the top of the wire back down through the bead again to make a loop, but don’t se­cure it in place yet.

12 Place the wooden pole through the loop and tighten the loop so the mea­sured mark sits tight against the pole. Crimp the bead and trim off any ex­cess wire. Re­peat with the re­main­ing strings, mak­ing sure to keep them in or­der so the top shapes sit at dif­fer­ent heights.

13 Cut a 75cm (29 ") length of wire and use a bead to make a loop at one end as per Step 11. Tighten the loop around the pole be­tween the end of the pole and the first string. Make an­other loop at the other end of the wire and se­cure at the op­po­site end of the pole in the same way. Trim off any ex­cess wire, then use this loop for hanging.

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