Mollie Makes - - Contents -

Ex­per­i­ment with cro­chet colour­work


Mal­abrigo Twist, 100% baby merino, 137m/150yd per 100g skein; one skein each in Zinc (613) (Yarn A), Da­mask (130) (Yarn B), Sun­set (96) (Yarn C), Azul Pro­fundo (150) (Yarn D), Nat­u­ral (63) (Yarn E) and Olive (56) (Yarn F) 5mm (UK 6, US H/8) cro­chet hook Stitch marker Yarn nee­dle


Ten­sion in tapestry cro­chet will be dif­fer­ent than with reg­u­lar cro­chet, so it’s im­por­tant to test your ten­sion be­fore you start. To cre­ate a ten­sion swatch for a project worked in the round, sim­ply make a swatch work­ing in rows, cut­ting your yarn at the end of each row and start­ing again at the begin­ning of pre­vi­ous row. Ap­prox. 14sts and 12 rounds (rows) in dou­ble cro­chet worked in BLO to mea­sure to 10cm (4") square.


st(s) stitch(es) ch chain ss slip stitch dc dou­ble cro­chet RS right side WS wrong side rep re­peat beg begin­ning prev pre­vi­ous BLO work stitch through the back loop only


131cm (51 ") cir­cum­fer­ence and 16.5cm (6 ") high For win­ter walks and last-minute Christmas shop­ping dashes, you’ve got to have a state­ment cowl to bun­dle up in. We’re lov­ing the Aztec-style pat­tern on this cro­chet ver­sion, and the fact it’s worked in merino wool gives it ex­tra cosy points – plus, it’s long enough to wrap around you twice.

The bold geo­met­ric shapes are cre­ated us­ing tapestry cro­chet colour­work. If you’ve never tried this tech­nique be­fore, make sure to read the in­struc­tions be­low thor­oughly be­fore start­ing.


Tapestry cro­chet is a method which uses two or more colours in a pat­tern to cre­ate a multi-coloured fab­ric, much like Fair Isle in knit­ting. It’s nor­mally used with dc, as in this de­sign. When work­ing tapestry

cro­chet, you’ll be us­ing two or more colours of yarn on each row, and will need to ‘carry’ the yarn not in use at any one time. This can be done by leav­ing the un­used yarn at the back of the work, or, for a neater fin­ish, by en­cas­ing the yarn as you work by work­ing over the un­used thread. With this project, you need to en­case the yarn, as the back of the work will be seen, and leav­ing the yarn float­ing at the back will look un­tidy. The chart above shows the colour of the stitches, with each square of colour rep­re­sent­ing a stitch. Read­ing the chart is sim­ple: read from the bot­tom up, and from right to left. With this pat­tern, two colours are used in each round, there­fore you only have to carry one colour of yarn at any time. As with all colour­work, you must change to a new colour of stitch on the last step of the pre­vi­ous stitch. If the next round re­quires dif­fer­ent colours, then break one or both yarns as needed and join the new colours for the next round. The cowl is worked in con­tin­u­ous rounds. Use a stitch marker to mark the end of each round and move it up as you work. The cowl is worked in dc through the back loop only.


Us­ing Yarn A, ch180, ss in 1st ch to join to form a ring, be­ing care­ful not to twist the ch Round 1 work­ing in the back loop of the ch, work Row 1 of chart, work­ing 12 st pat­tern re­peat 15 times around, con­tinue work­ing in a spi­ral [180 dc] Rounds 2-19 work Rows 2-19 of chart in dc in BLO; on the last st of Round 19 ss to join the cowl neatly and fas­ten off


Weave in any loose ends.

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