Experiment with crochet colourwork
Malabrigo Twist, 100% baby merino, 137m/150yd per 100g skein; one skein each in Zinc (613) (Yarn A), Damask (130) (Yarn B), Sunset (96) (Yarn C), Azul Profundo (150) (Yarn D), Natural (63) (Yarn E) and Olive (56) (Yarn F) 5mm (UK 6, US H/8) crochet hook Stitch marker Yarn needle
Tension in tapestry crochet will be different than with regular crochet, so it’s important to test your tension before you start. To create a tension swatch for a project worked in the round, simply make a swatch working in rows, cutting your yarn at the end of each row and starting again at the beginning of previous row. Approx. 14sts and 12 rounds (rows) in double crochet worked in BLO to measure to 10cm (4") square.
st(s) stitch(es) ch chain ss slip stitch dc double crochet RS right side WS wrong side rep repeat beg beginning prev previous BLO work stitch through the back loop only
131cm (51 ") circumference and 16.5cm (6 ") high For winter walks and last-minute Christmas shopping dashes, you’ve got to have a statement cowl to bundle up in. We’re loving the Aztec-style pattern on this crochet version, and the fact it’s worked in merino wool gives it extra cosy points – plus, it’s long enough to wrap around you twice.
The bold geometric shapes are created using tapestry crochet colourwork. If you’ve never tried this technique before, make sure to read the instructions below thoroughly before starting.
Tapestry crochet is a method which uses two or more colours in a pattern to create a multi-coloured fabric, much like Fair Isle in knitting. It’s normally used with dc, as in this design. When working tapestry
crochet, you’ll be using two or more colours of yarn on each row, and will need to ‘carry’ the yarn not in use at any one time. This can be done by leaving the unused yarn at the back of the work, or, for a neater finish, by encasing the yarn as you work by working over the unused thread. With this project, you need to encase the yarn, as the back of the work will be seen, and leaving the yarn floating at the back will look untidy. The chart above shows the colour of the stitches, with each square of colour representing a stitch. Reading the chart is simple: read from the bottom up, and from right to left. With this pattern, two colours are used in each round, therefore you only have to carry one colour of yarn at any time. As with all colourwork, you must change to a new colour of stitch on the last step of the previous stitch. If the next round requires different colours, then break one or both yarns as needed and join the new colours for the next round. The cowl is worked in continuous rounds. Use a stitch marker to mark the end of each round and move it up as you work. The cowl is worked in dc through the back loop only.
Using Yarn A, ch180, ss in 1st ch to join to form a ring, being careful not to twist the ch Round 1 working in the back loop of the ch, work Row 1 of chart, working 12 st pattern repeat 15 times around, continue working in a spiral [180 dc] Rounds 2-19 work Rows 2-19 of chart in dc in BLO; on the last st of Round 19 ss to join the cowl neatly and fasten off
Weave in any loose ends.