Lib­erty neck­lace

Natalie Bos­worth’s sim­ple-sew neck­lace is an in­stant spring up­date for fab­ric lovers

Mollie Makes - - Contents -

MA­TE­RI­ALS

25cm (97/ 8") printed cot­ton fab­ric (we used Lib­erty Tana Lawn Clare and Emily in Yel­low) 1m (39 3/ 8") pip­ing cord, 1cm ( 3 /8") wide 30cm (11 7/ 8") sil­ver-plated jew­ellery chain One sil­ver-plated lob­ster clasp Four sil­ver-plated jump rings Two sil­ver-plated ku­mi­himo end caps, 1.5cm ( 5 /8") di­am­e­ter Fab­ric glue Match­ing sewing thread Ro­tary cut­ter Nee­dle-nose pli­ers

In our book, a smile-shaped neck­lace in sun­shine yel­low def­i­nitely has the power to turn a frown or two up­side down.

You’ll only need a teensy bit of fab­ric for this make, so scrap hap­pi­ness is guar­an­teed. Dig out those prized prints from your stash and let them shine, keep­ing it fresh with just one fab­ric, or play­ing mix and match to high­light the twists.

01 Press the fab­ric and place it wrong side ( WS) fac­ing. Find the bias by fold­ing the fab­ric di­ag­o­nally from the top cor­ner with the left hand edge meet­ing the top edge. Mark where the fold is at the bot­tom, then open it out and join that point to the top left cor­ner.

02 Mea­sure and mark three 25 x 5cm (97/ x 2") strips on the bias. 8 Cut them out with the ro­tary cut­ter.

03 Press the three fab­ric strips, stretch­ing each one as you go to cre­ate a smooth fin­ish.

04 Pin a strip around the cord with right sides (RS) to­gether, align­ing the long edges and leav­ing 25cm (97/ 8") of the cord end un­cov­ered.

05 Us­ing an ad­justable zip­per foot, make sure the nee­dle is aligned with the left-hand edge of the foot, then use the hand wheel to care­fully stitch through the cord and fab­ric a few times to se­cure it.

06 With the zip­per foot par­al­lel to the cord, and the nee­dle just go­ing through the fab­ric seam al­lowance, sew along the very edge of the

cord, pulling the seam al­lowance taut as you sew for a smooth fin­ish. Re­verse stitch at the end.

07 Slide the fab­ric tube back on it­self over the blank end of the cord and keep pulling so the fab­ric turns it­self RS out. Cut the cov­ered cord to length. Re­peat Steps 1-7 twice more so there are three cov­ered cords al­to­gether.

08 With the seams to the back, pin the three cords to­gether, then se­cure them at the very top us­ing a nee­dle and thread.

09 Keep­ing the seams to the back through­out, pass the cord on the left over the other two, then the cord now on the left over the next two, and so on, un­til you have passed each cord over twice. Keep the twist loose and evenly spaced along the length of the neck­lace.

10 Tease the twisted cord bar into a slight curve, pin in place, then se­cure the ends to­gether us­ing a nee­dle and thread. Trim all the raw ends to the same length.

11 Squeeze a lit­tle fab­ric glue into each of the end caps, and onto the cut ends of the twisted cord bar. Leave to dry for a few min­utes then bring the two to­gether, mak­ing sure the cord is fully in­serted in the end cap, with the glued sec­tions meet­ing. Leave to dry.

12 Cut two 13cm (5 ") lengths of jew­ellery chain, or a length to suit you, then use then nee­dle-nose pli­ers to at­tach a lob­ster clasp to one end of one of the chain lengths with a jump ring. At­tach an­other jump ring to one end of the other chain length. At­tach the op­po­site end of each length of chain to the end caps with two more jump rings to fin­ish, mak­ing sure they’re se­curely closed.

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