HOW TO MAKE… KNITTED SOCKS
Knit Picks Stroll Sock Yarn, 75% superwash merino wool/25% nylon, 211m/231yd per 50g ball, one ball each of Dove Heather (25023) (Yarn A), Dogwood Heather (25603) (Yarn B), Black (23701) (Yarn C) and White (26082) (Yarn D) Set of four 2.25mm (UK 13, US 1) double-pointed knitting needles Set of four 2.75mm (UK 12, US 2) doublepointed knitting needles 3.75mm (UK 9, US 5) knitting needle (used for loose cast off) Stitch holder Stitch marker Yarn needle
31 sts and 42 rows in st st to measure 10 x 10cm (4 x 4") using 2.75mm needles (or size needed to achieve correct tension)
st(s) stitch(es) k knit p purl k2tog knit two sts together st st stocking stitch – if knitting on straight needles, knit one row, purl one row, if knitting in the round, knit all rounds ssk slip one st, slip one st, knit slipped sts together kfb knit into the front and then the back of the next st dpn(s) double-pointed needles rnd round
The socks can be made in five sizes: XS (S, M, L, XL). Refer to the chart on page 99 for further details Never have we coveted a pair of novelty socks more. Was it the contrasting pastel heel and toe detail that swung it, or those heart-shaped cheeks? Hard to tell, but one thing’s for sure – we’ll be casting on before the day is done.
Socks are worked from the toe up. Instructions are given for the smallest size with larger sizes in brackets where different. Instructions are given for using dpns. If using a circular needle for the magic loop method, note that the instructions have the heel split over Needles 1 and 2, and the instep on Needle 3.
Wrap and Turn (W&T)
The wrap and turn method is a form of short row knitting. W&T on a knit row With yarn at the back of work, slip the next st from the left needle to the right needle purlwise. Bring the yarn forward, between the needles (as if you were going to purl). Slip the st from the right needle back to the left needle. Take the yarn between the needles to the back of work (as if you were going to knit). Turn your work so the purl side is facing you, ready to purl the next row according to the pattern. W&T on a purl row With yarn at the front, slip the next st purlwise from the left needle to the right needle. Take the yarn between the needles to the back (as if you were going to knit). Slip the st from the right needle back to the left needle. Bring the yarn to the front of the work (as if you were going to purl). Turn work so the knit side is facing ready to knit the next st according to the pattern. Picking up wraps on the knit side When you reach the wrapped st, insert the right needle into the wrap, from front to back. Insert the right needle into the st that is wrapped, then knit the wrap and the st together. Picking up wraps on the purl side When you reach the wrapped st, insert the right needle into the wrap, from back to front. Place the wrap onto the left needle so that it sits over the top and behind the st that was wrapped, then purl the wrap and the st together.
Socks (make two)
Toe Using Judy’s Magic Cast On method, with 2.75mm needles and Yarn B, cast on 16 (20, 20, 24, 24) sts over two needles – 8 (10, 10, 12, 12) sts on each needle Round 1 k Next, divide the 8 (10, 10, 12, 12) sts on first needle evenly over two dpns for the bottom of sock/heel. These are now called Needle 1 and Needle 2. Leave the last 8 (10, 10, 12, 12) sts on third dpn for top of sock/instep. This is now Needle 3. Start toe increase as follows: Round 2 starting with Needle 1: kfb, knit to last st on Needle 2, kfb in last st; on Needle 3: kfb, knit to last st on Needle 3, kfb in last st [20 (24, 24, 28, 28) sts] Rep Rounds 1-2 until you have 44 (48, 52, 56, 60) sts in total Foot Change to Yarn A For a generic foot size, knit until foot measures approximately 13 (15.5, 18, 19, 21) cm (5¼ (61/ , 71/ , 8 8 7½, 8¼)") from cast on, or for best fit, knit until foot measures 4 (4, 4.5, 4.5, 4.5)cm (15/ (15/ , 17/ , 17/ , 17/ )") 8 8 8 8 8 less than total foot length Heel Change to Yarn B Work the heel in rows over Needles 1 and 2 only
Bottom half of heel Row 1 starting with Needle 1, knit to last st on Needle 2, W&T Row 2 p to last st on Needle 1 (this is last st with wrong side ( WS) facing), W&T Row 3 k to 1 st before the last wrapped st of the heel, W&T Row 4 p to 1 st before the last wrapped st of the heel, W&T Rep Rows 3- 4 until 6 (8, 8, 8, 10) sts remain unworked in the middle of the heel. Bottom half of the heel is now complete. Top half of heel Row 1 k to first wrapped st, pick up wrapped st and knit it together with st on needle, W&T the next st (this st now has 2 wraps) Row 2 p to first wrapped st, pick up wrapped st and purl it together with st on needle, W&T the next st (this st now has 2 wraps) Row 3 k to st with double wrap, pick up both wraps and knit them together with st on needle, W&T the next st Row 4 p to st with double wrap, pick up both wraps and purl them together with st on needle, W&T the next st Rep Rows 3- 4 until there is 1 double wrap left on each side of the heel Change back to Yarn A for next row. Note that the first st will be skipped when working this row. Next row rep Row 3, wrapping 1 st from top of sock/instep Next row rep Row 4, wrapping 1 st from top of sock/instep Leg Round 1 begin to knit sock in the round. When you come to the wrapped sts on the instep, pick up these wraps and knit them together with their respective sts Continue to knit until sock measures 13 (14, 15.5, 15.5, 16.5)cm (5¼ (5½, 61/ , 61/ , 6½)") from bottom of heel, or desired length, noting that the ribbing will add an extra 2cm (¾") Cuff Change to 2.25mm needles and work in (k1, p1) rib for 2cm (¾"), working to last 1 (2, 2, 2, 2) sts on last round Ears When casting off in rib, you’ll need to cast off very loosely to ensure the sock will fit the leg, therefore a much larger needle is recommended – try using a 3.75mm needle to cast off and create the perfect tension. If you want to cast off loosely using your own preferred method, feel free to ignore the needle changing instructions referenced for casting off. If knitting for yourself, you can try the sock on before knitting the ears to make sure you’re happy with the casting off tension. With 3.75mm needle, cast off the next 1 (2, 2, 2, 2) sts, then cast off all sts on Needles 1 and 2, and cast off 1 (2, 2, 2, 2) sts from Needle 3 – 20 (20, 22, 24, 26) sts remaining (including 1 st on right-hand needle) Change back to 2.25mm needles and work in rib as established for 8 sts (9 sts are now on right-hand needle). Place these 9 sts just worked onto a stitch holder. With 3.75mm needle, cast off 2 (2, 4, 6, 8) sts, change to 2.25mm needles and work in rib as established, for the last 8 sts – 9 sts remaining. Left ear Using a second 2.25mm needle, pick up 9 sts behind 9 sts just worked as follows: *Turn sock so that the wrong side of sock is facing (so you can see the inside of the sock). Pick up each purl ridge that sits below the live purl sts of the rib and pick up the left leg of the ’V’ of the knit st that sits below the live knit sts of the rib. You will now have 18 sts, ready to knit in the round for the ear Change to 2.75mm needles Work in the round, starting at one side of ear, using a stitch marker to mark the start of the round Rounds 1-4 k Round 5 (ssk, k5, k2tog) twice [14 sts] Round 6 (ssk, k3, k2tog) twice [10 sts] Round 7 (ssk, k1, k2tog) twice [6 sts] Break off yarn, thread onto yarn needle and graft sts together using Kitchener stitch Weave tail end through to inside of ear, and weave in to WS of ribbing. Transfer 9 sts from stitch holder to a 2.25mm needle and repeat from * to complete second ear. Face and heel details Using duplicate stitch, embroider the colour charts on page 99 onto the socks as follows: Choose face chart according to size knitted and apply on centre front of sock, to sit 2 rows below ribbing. Apply the heel chart on centre back heel, using the contrast heel as a guide.
Weave all ends into the WS and trim, then block the socks.