Mollie Makes - - Contents -

Jazz up your denim, fes­ti­val style


Paint­box Yarns Sim­ply Aran, 100% acrylic, 184m/201yd per 100g, one ball each in Neon Yel­low (Yarn A), Bub­blegum Pink (Yarn L), Neon Pink (Yarn N) Style­craft Spe­cial Aran, 100% acrylic, 196m/214yd per 100g, one ball in Aspen (Yarn B) Clover Nat­u­ral Rov­ing, 100% wool, 20g, one pack each in Pale Blue (Yarn C), Pale Pink (Yarn G) and Pale Yel­low (Yarn J) Paint­box Yarns Wool Mix Su­per Chunky, 50% wool/50% acrylic, 55m/60yd per 100g, one ball each in Neon Pink (Yarn D), Pale Blue (Yarn I) and Dusty Rose (Yarn M) Lion Brand Fun Fur, 100% polyester, 59m/64yd per 50g, one ball in Soft Pink (Yarn E) Mil­laMia Nat­u­rally Soft Su­per Chunky, 100% merino wool, 50m/55yd per 100g, one ball in Heir­loom (Yarn F) King Cole Opium, 54% cot­ton/42% acrylic/4% polyamide, 250m/273yd per 100g, one ball in Rose (Yarn H) Lana Grossa Fel­tro, 100% wool, 50m/55yd per 50g, one ball in Per­lvi­o­let (Yarn K) Cas­cade Ul­tra Pima, 100% cot­ton, 201m/220yd per 100g, one ball each in Jade (Yarn O) and Emer­ald (Yarn P) Denim jacket Yarn nee­dle Weav­ing nee­dle Weav­ing comb Small pom pom maker Erasable fab­ric marker

Oh yeah, weav­ing you can wear is of­fi­cially a thing now. You can nail the trend for state­ment jacket back de­tail­ing and get to know your rya knots from your soumak in the bar­gain. And how about that pas­tels-ver­sus-neons pal­ette? Eye-pop­ping fes­ti­val chic, and your girl gang will def­i­nitely be able to spot you in a crowd.


Turn to page 96 for a guide to the dif­fer­ent weav­ing tech­niques, and a de­tailed place­ment guide. Use ap­prox­i­mately 3m (1181/ 8") of yarn for each weave sec­tion. You may need to add more in places, but it’s a good length to start with and is less likely to tan­gle. Start each row in the mid­dle of the warp threads – this hides the loose ends and pre­vents un­rav­el­ling. Also try to fin­ish each row in the mid­dle.

This will help keep the weave rows even. Use a weave comb to bat down the weave af­ter each row, as this helps to keep the weave taut and neat. For the looser tech­niques such as the soumak and the looped weave, you can al­ter the shape by bat­ting down the rows more firmly at the edges to cre­ate curves. When start­ing each new colour of the weave, leave a yarn tail of ap­prox­i­mately 10cm (4") at the back of the warp. Some­times the first row of a new colour will be in the same or­der of over and un­der as the row be­fore. Don’t worry, as when you squish the rows to­gether the in­con­sis­tency will dis­ap­pear. As you’ll sew the warp threads di­rectly onto the jacket, the weave won’t be as taut as it would be if you were us­ing a loom. You might find it eas­ier to use your hands to pull the jacket taut as you weave.

Tabby weave

This is the sim­plest weave to do. Thread the yarn onto the weav­ing nee­dle or a large plas­tic darn­ing nee­dle and weave over, then un­der, each warp thread across the weave. When you’ve reached the edge of the weave, turn the nee­dle around and weave back the other way, al­ter­nat­ing the over and un­ders.


01 To cre­ate the warp for the weav­ing, us­ing the black out­line of the weave di­a­gram on page 96 as a tem­plate, draw the weave shape on the back of the jacket us­ing an erasable pen, in­clud­ing the black V-shaped line in­side the tem­plate. Make a mark ev­ery 0.5cm ( ") along the top edge and the bot­tom V-shaped edge, mak­ing sure the marks are par­al­lel. These are guide­lines for the warp threads.

02 Us­ing a yarn nee­dle and Yarn P, sew par­al­lel lines join­ing the marks at the top and bot­tom of the weave shape. Turn the jacket up­side down so the top edge be­comes the base of the weave.

03 Weave three rows of tabby weave in Yarn A and then three rows of tabby weave in Yarn B. Us­ing 1m (393/ 8") of Yarn C, weave two rows of large soumak. Be­gin the weave about 20 warp threads in from the right-hand side. Weave to­wards the left, group­ing the warp threads as shown, then back to­wards the right, fin­ish­ing roughly two-thirds of the way across.

04 Weave ap­prox­i­mately eight rows of tabby weave in Yarn D, fol­low­ing the shape of the soumak. By ap­prox­i­mately the eighth row you should have a straight edge of weave again. Next, weave three rows of tabby weave in Yarn B.

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