Mollie Makes - - Contents -

Whip up a co­or­di­nat­ing tea towel and oven mitt in pretty flo­ral prints


50cm (19 ") Lib­erty The Cottage Gar­den Col­lec­tion in Emily Sil­hou­ette X (Fab­ric A) (ours was from www. al­ice­caro­ 50cm (19 ") Lib­erty The Cottage Gar­den Col­lec­tion in New­land Large Y (Fab­ric B) 50cm (19 ") washed nat­u­ral linen fab­ric (Fab­ric C) 50cm (19 ") heat re­sis­tant in­su­lat­ing wad­ding Match­ing sewing thread Sewing nee­dle Tai­lor’s chalk Metal ruler Set square Ro­tary cut­ter Cut­ting board Awl 2.5cm (1") bias bind­ing maker tool We’re waltz­ing mer­rily into pat­tern clash ter­ri­tory with this ditsy flo­ral duo – a quilted oven mitt and co-or­di­nat­ing tea towel. And if get­ting dis­pro­por­tion­ately ex­cited about fancy kitchen linen is wrong, we don’t want to be right.

Whether or not you can nail the per­fect souf­flé, mak­ing your own bias bind­ing is to­tally doable and we’re lov­ing the con­trast ef­fect it gives this pair. Take that ro­tary cut­ter for a spin and rus­tle up a set for a bit of flo­ral love­li­ness in your kitchen, or to treat a foodie pal.

If you’re us­ing a fab­ric with a di­rec­tional pat­tern, you’ll need 75cm (29½") for Fab­ric A.

Cut­ting out

01 Start by cut­ting out a 48 x 66cm (187/ x 26") rec­tan­gle from 8 both Fab­ric A and Fab­ric C for the tea towel. For the oven mitt, fold Fab­ric B in half with right sides (RS) to­gether. Us­ing the tem­plate on page 96, draw out the mitt shape twice, close to the open edge, not the folded edge of the fab­ric, leav­ing a larger, square-ish piece in­tact to make the bias bind­ing for the tea towel. Cut both of the mitt pieces out with a 1cm ( 3 /8") seam al­lowance, so you end up with four mitt pieces al­to­gether.

Tea towel

02 Lay the Fab­ric C rec­tan­gle out and place the Fab­ric A rec­tan­gle on top, wrong sides ( WS) to­gether. Us­ing the set square and the tai­lor’s chalk, mark a line at a 45° an­gle across the tea towel. Re­peat this all the way across the tea towel at 7cm (2¾") in­ter­vals, adding some pins along the lines to keep the fab­rics to­gether. Sew along the marked lines, re­mov­ing the pins. Now mark lines in the op­po­site di­rec­tion in the same way, cre­at­ing a criss-cross pat­tern. Sew along these lines to quilt the fab­ric.

03 Lay the tea towel out with the linen side fac­ing up. Fold one of the long edges to this side twice by about 1cm ( 3 /8") and pin in place, as shown. Re­peat this step with the other long edge. Sew in place close to the folded edge.

04 To make the bias bind­ing, take the re­main­ing piece of Fab­ric B. Us­ing the set square, mark di­ag­o­nal lines at 45° across the fab­ric, each 5cm (2") apart. Next, cut the fab­ric into strips us­ing a metal ruler, ro­tary cut­ter and cut­ting board. You should have a cou­ple of strips long enough (at least 48cm (187/ 8") once the di­ag­o­nal ends are cut off) so that you don’t need to sew any of the strips to­gether.

05 Thread the strip through the bias bind­ing maker us­ing the awl and press with a hot iron in sec­tions as you pull it through, cre­at­ing the bias bind­ing. Next, fold the bias bind­ing in half along the length, with the open edges on the in­side, and press again.

06 To make the loop for hang­ing the tea towel, cut a 13cm (5¼") length of bias bind­ing. Sew the open long edge closed.

Cut a piece of bias 1cm ( 3 /8") longer than the short edge of the tea towel. Fold the ends of the bias to the WS by 0.5cm (¼") and pin the bias in place over one of the short edges of the tea towel. Re­peat at the other end. Fold the loop piece in half and tuck the raw ends un­der the bias, about 0.5cm (¼") in from one of the cor­ners. Ma­chine-sew the bias in place, close to its in­ner edge.

Oven mitt

08 Make the bias bind­ing in the same way as for the tea towel, us­ing the left­over Fab­ric A – you’ll only need about 32cm (125/ 8"), so you shouldn’t have to sew any strips to­gether. Set aside for now.

09 Pin two of the mitt pieces with RS to­gether. Sew around the chalk line but leave the wrist open­ing un­sewn. This is the lin­ing. Cut the seam al­lowance be­tween the thumb and main glove.

10 Place the other two mitt pieces RS up on top of the wad­ding and pin in place. Cut out around the fab­ric. As per Step 2, mark di­ag­o­nal lines at 7cm (2 ") in­ter­vals on the two fab­ric/wad­ding mitt pieces, sew along these lines, and re­peat in the other di­rec­tion to cre­ate a criss-cross pat­tern. Trim any over­lap if the wad­ding has shifted at all dur­ing the sewing.

11 Place the two mitt pieces with RS to­gether, then pin and sew 1cm ( 3 /8") in from the edge, stop­ping ei­ther side of the wrist open­ing. Snip the seam al­lowance be­tween the thumb and mitt, trim the seam to 0.5cm (¼") and cut darts along the curved edges. Turn RS out and tuck the lin­ing into the outer piece with WS to­gether, lin­ing up the edges of the wrist open­ing.

12 Fi­nally, take the bias bind­ing and fold it over the open edge of the mitt all the way around, pin­ning it in place. Over­lap the ends by about 2cm (¾"), fold the top end to the WS by 1cm ( 3 /8") and pin. Make a hang­ing loop as per Step 6, then fold the loop piece in half and tuck the open ends un­der the bind­ing edg­ing. Hand-sew the bias bind­ing in place around the outer and in­ner edges to fin­ish.

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