Jazz up your denim, festival style
HOW TO MAKE… A WOVEN JACKET MATERIALS
Paintbox Yarns Simply Aran, 100% acrylic, 184m/201yd per 100g, one ball each in Neon Yellow (Yarn A), Bubblegum Pink (Yarn L), Neon Pink (Yarn N) Stylecraft Special Aran, 100% acrylic, 196m/214yd per 100g, one ball in Aspen (Yarn B) Clover Natural Roving, 100% wool, 20g, one pack each in Pale Blue (Yarn C), Pale Pink (Yarn G) and Pale Yellow (Yarn J) Paintbox Yarns Wool Mix Super Chunky, 50% wool/50% acrylic, 55m/60yd per 100g, one ball each in Neon Pink (Yarn D), Pale Blue (Yarn I) and Dusty Rose (Yarn M) Lion Brand Fun Fur, 100% polyester, 59m/64yd per 50g, one ball in Soft Pink (Yarn E) MillaMia Naturally Soft Super Chunky, 100% merino wool, 50m/55yd per 100g, one ball in Heirloom (Yarn F) King Cole Opium, 54% cotton/42% acrylic/4% polyamide, 250m/273yd per 100g, one ball in Rose (Yarn H) Lana Grossa Feltro, 100% wool, 50m/55yd per 50g, one ball in Perlviolet (Yarn K) Cascade Ultra Pima, 100% cotton, 201m/220yd per 100g, one ball each in Jade (Yarn O) and Emerald (Yarn P) Denim jacket Yarn needle Weaving needle Weaving comb Small pom pom maker Erasable fabric marker
Oh yeah, weaving you can wear is officially a thing now. You can nail the trend for statement jacket back detailing and get to know your rya knots from your soumak in the bargain. And how about that pastels-versus-neons palette? Eye-popping festival chic, and your girl gang will definitely be able to spot you in a crowd.
Turn to page 96 for a guide to the different weaving techniques, and a detailed placement guide. Use approximately 3m (1181/ 8") of yarn for each weave section. You may need to add more in places, but it’s a good length to start with and is less likely to tangle. Start each row in the middle of the warp threads – this hides the loose ends and prevents unravelling. Also try to finish each row in the middle.
This will help keep the weave rows even. Use a weave comb to bat down the weave after each row, as this helps to keep the weave taut and neat. For the looser techniques such as the soumak and the looped weave, you can alter the shape by batting down the rows more firmly at the edges to create curves. When starting each new colour of the weave, leave a yarn tail of approximately 10cm (4") at the back of the warp. Sometimes the first row of a new colour will be in the same order of over and under as the row before. Don’t worry, as when you squish the rows together the inconsistency will disappear. As you’ll sew the warp threads directly onto the jacket, the weave won’t be as taut as it would be if you were using a loom. You might find it easier to use your hands to pull the jacket taut as you weave.
This is the simplest weave to do. Thread the yarn onto the weaving needle or a large plastic darning needle and weave over, then under, each warp thread across the weave. When you’ve reached the edge of the weave, turn the needle around and weave back the other way, alternating the over and unders.
01 To create the warp for the weaving, using the black outline of the weave diagram on page 96 as a template, draw the weave shape on the back of the jacket using an erasable pen, including the black V-shaped line inside the template. Make a mark every 0.5cm ( ") along the top edge and the bottom V-shaped edge, making sure the marks are parallel. These are guidelines for the warp threads.
02 Using a yarn needle and Yarn P, sew parallel lines joining the marks at the top and bottom of the weave shape. Turn the jacket upside down so the top edge becomes the base of the weave.
03 Weave three rows of tabby weave in Yarn A and then three rows of tabby weave in Yarn B. Using 1m (393/ 8") of Yarn C, weave two rows of large soumak. Begin the weave about 20 warp threads in from the right-hand side. Weave towards the left, grouping the warp threads as shown, then back towards the right, finishing roughly two-thirds of the way across.
04 Weave approximately eight rows of tabby weave in Yarn D, following the shape of the soumak. By approximately the eighth row you should have a straight edge of weave again. Next, weave three rows of tabby weave in Yarn B.
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