ROPE BAG

Sew a bas­ket-style bag for the sum­mer – Amy Vick­berg shows you how

Mollie Makes - - Contents -

Sew the sum­mer bas­ket bag trend

Right now, we like our bags how we like our dough­nuts – round, siz­able and sweet. And who knew you could get in on this sum­mer’s hottest ac­ces­sory trend with a bit of clever rope coil­ing?

This ca­sual, cross-body trea­sure has hol­i­day writ­ten all over it. It’s light enough to throw on over your shoul­der and has enough room for your phone, purse, sun­nies and your cur­rent read.

It’s easy to cus­tomise, too – keep threads neu­tral for a sub­tle look, or mix in brights for a rain­bow fix. We’ll be sewing ours and head­ing to the lido, dream­ing of the Riviera.

01 Load three bob­bins with thread – this will be for in­side the bag, so ei­ther colour works. Use navy blue as the top thread. Set the sewing ma­chine to the widest, long­est zigzag stitch. Coil the rope end, as shown, and place it un­der the presser foot keep­ing the work­ing end on the right. Start by sewing across this and then sew around, coil­ing the rope and catch­ing both sides of the rope with the nee­dle.

02 To cre­ate stripes as you go, stop and change the top thread, back­stitch­ing at the start and fin­ish. Cre­ate vari­a­tions by short­en­ing the stitch length pe­ri­od­i­cally. Con­tinue around un­til the di­am­e­ter mea­sures ap­prox­i­mately 25cm (97/ 8").

03 To cre­ate the edge of the bag, lift the cir­cle at a 45 an­gle to the sewing ma­chine and con­tinue coil­ing and sewing as be­fore for ap­prox­i­mately 4cm (15/ 8").

04 Back­stitch and snip the threads. Turn wrong side ( WS) out so the top stitch­ing is on the outer curved side. Pin a loop of rope to the side at 2 o’clock and con­tinue pin­ning to the other side, leav­ing enough rope for an­other loop, plus enough to reach to the bot­tom of the bag, then cut off the rope.

05 Sew the rope to the bag, back­stitch­ing at the stress point of the loop. Pin the sec­ond loop to the bag, tuck­ing the end into the bag’s edge. Sew from this end to the loop, back­stitch­ing to fin­ish.

06 To cre­ate the sec­ond side, re­peat Steps 1-3. Mea­sure as you go to en­sure they are iden­ti­cal – you can count the ropes to be ex­act. Flip the piece, tuck in the end and fin­ish with back­stitch­ing.

Place the two bag sides on ei­ther side of the presser foot, WS fac­ing, start­ing at the loop. Sew to­gether, fold­ing the bag in half on the right in or­der to get it un­der the sewing ma­chine arm.

08 For the strap, use a piece of rope to mea­sure where you want the bag to fall. Dou­ble this length and, us­ing white thread, sew it to it­self start­ing at the fold. Push this dou­ble rope through one of the loops on the bag and pin the rope to it leav­ing a lit­tle slack. Sew the rope to it­self again – three widths now – back­stitch­ing at the end.

09 Mea­sure the fourth length against the strap and cut the work­ing end off the rope. To cre­ate a clean fin­ish, use clear sticky tape around the rope and cut half­way through it. Pass the strap through the sec­ond loop, mak­ing sure the strap lays cor­rectly, and sew the last length to the strap.

10 For the clo­sure loop, fin­ish both ends of a 20cm (77/ 8") length of rope with clear sticky tape, as in Step 9, and sew to the in­side of the back of the bag, as shown.

11 To make tas­sels, wrap the em­broi­dery thread around the card­board ten times, leav­ing a tail at the top. Wrap the thread around the top and tie, then cut the bot­tom loop off the card­board and trim. Make one in each colour, then tie to the bag loop.

12 Us­ing the clo­sure loop to mea­sure the place­ment, sew the wooden bead to the bag with em­broi­dery thread.

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